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S/N: 1C188190
Manufactured between December 1940 and December 1941. Portable typewriter with black wooden case.
This looks to be the latest of the 1C series Corona Standard flattops in the Typewriter Database. Dirty and needs restoration, but looks imminently salvageable. Can’t wait to polish this beauty!
In most cases, the word “CEO” is a lie.
It’s usually a propaganda word for violent money addicts with severe mental illness.
A blue metal portable typewriter with black plastic keys and a black plastic case/cover. JP-1 model, 3rd Variation. Serial Number: C03184679 (March 1980).
It needs a serious clean out from the flecks of white out from a prior user’s use of the black and white correction ribbon that originally came with these machines. Generally in good condition given it’s age. It’ll need some work on the ribbon advance set up in both directions and is missing a shift key cap. Other than a few small niggling issues that will get fixed in the clean, oil, and adjustment process, this will be an easy machine to resurrect to like new condition.
It’ll also give me a sample machine so that I know what’s wrong with my other Brother Charger 11’s backspace mechanics, for which I think a piece is physically missing.
When I’m done cleaning it up, either this one or my other will be re-homed to someone who needs to have a typewriter.
Fortunately, before I had started I was aware of a possibly little known feature called the Fold-A-Matic. I came across the idea of the Fold-A-Matic while looking at other Remington Standards and Super-Riters on the TypewriterDatabase. This led me to a photo of James Groom‘s typewriter and a post by Ted Munk which had a diagram from a Remington repair manual. The fun of the feature is that by loosening a few screws, removing a few others, the entirety of the back end of the typewriter including the carriage folds open allowing easy access to almost all the parts of the typewriter. This means it’s far easier to clean, oil, and adjust almost everything on the machine.
Typewriter manual page from a 1960s Remington 19 typewriter.
So instead of spending a day and a half cleaning out a typewriter, I managed to do it in about half a day.
Since I didn’t come across any great photos of the machine opened up, I thought I’d document some of that process along the way.
From the Remington Standard Typewriter Repair section of AMES Basic Training Manual for Standard Typewriters by Murray Harris (January, 1968) https://typewriterdatabase.com/1968-Ames_Standard_SVC.remington-repair.manual
To begin, one needs to loosen the screws that hold the top of the left and right body panels onto the typewriter. They can then be leaned out and quickly removed.
Next one removes the two screws (the rear ones labeled B in Monk’s diagram) on either side that hold the rear cover in place. It too pivots on a small piece of metal at the bottom so it can be easily lifted off and removed.
Next one can remove two screws in the carriage area (labeled A in Monk’s diagram), the other two “B” screws and the “C” screws on either side. Finally, one then loosens the two “D” screws at the back rear corners of the typewriters. It’s important that these should only be loosened a few turns as they’re used as a pivot to hold the rear of the typewriter in place. They could certainly be completely removed, but it takes some work to get everything aligned and back together again.
Now you can fold down the entirety of the rear of the typewriter, thereby opening it up for cleaning and adjustment. Of course, not everything is accessible in this configuration, but by removing the ribbon hood or flipping the machine over, the majority of the typewriter components are readily reached. This procedure takes just a minute compared to about 10-20 minutes of work to get other machines apart into a somewhat similar state. You save this time again on the other end when putting things back together. The other benefit is that so much of the machine can be easily reached and adjusted that less tweaking is required along the way. It cut my cleaning process roughly in half.
Missing/Broken Screws
One of the issues my particular model has is that the rear cover didn’t seem to have any means of holding it on. There were holes in the left and right side, but there didn’t appear to be any way for them to be used to hold the rear cover onto the machine. While cleaning, I discovered both of the screw heads (shoulder bolts, in fact) had been shorn off. Fortunately the screws were long enough that they exited the opposite side of their mounts, so I was able to easily remove them. I’ll have to find some replacement screws.
Historical Servicing
Given the age of the machine, the small chips and dings in the paint or the wear on some of the crinkle paint, it was reasonably well-used and likely cleaned and adjusted several times. It’s been a while since the last cleaning as some of the eraser bits inside the machine have stained some of the shiny steel. But I’ll note that the amount of oil used in the last service was very light at best. There were several patches of grease used on the mechanics on the sides as well as the axel of the mainspring and in the bearing assembly for the shift mechanism. I photographed these as evidence of how this model was serviced at some point in its prior life.
Additional points
After winding through some of the ribbon, I’ve found a usable patch. I’m curious to see if the dried out parts will absorb some moisture to be usable again. We’ll see what happens, otherwise, I’m sitting on a nice mountain of new ribbon to respool onto this machine.
After cleaning, I’m noticing that the speed of the machine has picked up a bit. I’ll give it a few days of use to see how things proceed, but I suspect that it could be faster. If it doesn’t improve, I may give it a few additional drops of oil in places, a process which dramatically helped out my Royal HH a week after cleaning it out. Pending this, I also ought to take a closer look at the touch control set up functionality.
The platen on this machine has a bit of play left, but not much. It’ll probably go another few years before it’s completely rock hard. At least I don’t need to have it recovered soon.
Cleaning and adjusting got rid of the residual grinding on the carriage I was experiencing a few days ago.
In the cleaning process, I noticed that one of the poor design choices is that the panels on the carriage don’t remove as easily as they do on other machines.
I notice on the paper fingers there are separately a small hole on the left for drawing straight lines using a pen or pencil and a small triangle on the right for similar usage.
As I’ve done on some past machines, I treated the crinkle paint with WD-40 after cleaning it off. The difference is quite dramatic, though even the before and after photos don’t really do the process justice.
As ever, there are still a handful of small issues with this machine that I hope to address in the coming weeks as I use it. I like it quite a lot, and it reminds me of it’s much smaller brother, a 1957 Remington Quiet-Riter, but with some finer features. I hope to pull it out and do a direct comparison in the next few days. We’ll see how it grows on me as a machine, but at the moment, I still like my Royal KMG and HH a bit better for day-to-day use.
Spent an hour or two on the 1956 Remington Standard today and got most of the big mechanical and adjustment issues out of the way. There’s still a hint of grinding on the carriage at the return, but I suspect it will be an easy repair as I begin to dismantle the machine for a thorough cleaning. I also got some of the bulk dust and dirt off of the exterior for the pending overhaul. It looks like this 32.4 pound beast is going to come roaring back to life.
The ribbon reverse now works again (the switch is hiding just under the hood in the middle; the Super-Riter models put in a hole and added a lever on the front for easier access). I rewound half the ribbon to discover only a portion on the left was dried out after decades of disuse. I’ll have to see about potential re-hydration or complete replacement. Discovered that this is my first typewriter model to have a top, bottom, and middle ribbon setting for even wear across the ribbon.
The machine is now in good enough condition to use regularly, but will be nicer and much faster once it’s been fully cleaned, oiled, and adjusted. I’m hoping this will happen sometime this coming week.
Found an adjacent manual for it by way of the Super-Riter model which is very close in terms of features. Including mine, which is the third oldest in the list, there are only 9 of these models in the typewriter database while there are 26 of the Super-Riter. I’ll have to do some studying to see what the differences between this model, the Super-Riter, the No. 17, and the KMC were.
The KR key above the backspace is a “key release” mechanism which unjams multiple slugs so one doesn’t need to dirty their fingers on the slugs themselves. Features like this began showing up into the 1960s SCM machines of which I’ve got a few. This is my first Remington to have the feature.
Captured a quick typeface sample and identified the typeface as what appears to be the Remington #4 Elite typeface with No. 2 uncial numbers which feature some nice waviness, especially in the 2, 4, 5, and 7. Looks very similar to the face on my 1957 Remington Quiet-Riter.
For others in the future, I found the serial number on the Remington Standard underneath the carriage on the right rear portion of the body. It’s stamped into the frame right next to the rear metal wall of the back of the machine.
I’ve been wrenching on enough typewriters, that it was time to up my game again and add some new typewriter tools to the proverbial tool bag. In fact it was also time for an actual tool bag! So back on August 16th, I added a portable repair person’s leather bag and some new typewriter repair tools to my collection. For those interested in improving their skills and typewriter tools, I am documenting some of these new typewriter repair and maintenance tools. If you’re getting into the space, I highly recommend you slowly build your toolbox with items only as you need them.
With some of the harder-to-find tools, do take care as they can often be dramatically overpriced in online auctions. The more cost-conscious should be on the look out for bundles of tools which are usually much less expensive than purchasing them one at a time. Additionally if you search around a bit you might find local collectives of typewriter enthusiasts who share or loan out tools.
Save the containers of solvents and the bottles of cleaning agents, all of the items which appear on this table fit comfortably into the black leather tool carrying case.
Papa’s Got a Brand New Bag
The leather repair bag I picked up is similar to one that late century traveling repair people would have carried with them for on-site repairs and typewriter maintenance. It has a compartment in the bottom with space for three metal trays of replacement parts. It has a side pocket for manuals and any necessary service paperwork. The main compartment has a large open space for a variety of wrenches, screwdrivers, and various other tools for use on the job.
Until I create a dedicated space in the garage for typewriter repair, this bag makes an exceptionally convenient storage space for keeping all my typewriter related tools in one place. I particularly love the heavy leather and patina of it as a piece and it works reasonably well as a decorative item with the rest of the collection. Modern variations of this bag can be found at purveyors like Crawford Tool which cater to copier, fax, and electronics repair spaces. Sadly leather covered wood isn’t an option, but there are a variety of soft cover, hard cover, and even metal or military cases available, some with extensible handles and wheels.
The bag itself is in great condition given its age and general use. It certainly helps that it was incredibly well designed and made with some seriously sturdy materials. The thickness of the leather is truly astounding compared to any bag I’ve ever come across. There are one or two pieces of leather that need to be repaired or re-attached to the wooden internal frame and a button/snap that needs to be repaired. These should be easy fixes for a rainy day.
Because new stock isn’t much of a reality and I prefer to keep parts in situ on parts machines for use when needed, I haven’t been using the three metal parts containers as much as I might. Instead, I tend to use them as temporary receptacles of screws, nuts, and springs while I’m taking apart machines for restoration. This helps in keeping sections separate for easier re-assembly and having three means that I could be working on three disassembled machines at a time if I wish without getting parts from different machines confused.
Along with the bag I acquired wide variety of wrenches, screwdrivers, tweezers, and some new specialty typewriter repair tools. The specialty tools tend to the higher end of typewriter repair and adjustment that most hobbyists can manage without, but which can be useful from time to time.
Below are some of the new (and other recent) acquisitions:
Typewriter Manuals
The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible (wirebound; digital) – While there are a lot of great repair manuals out there, many specializing in one or more very specific models or series, this is probably the general repair manual you’d want in a pinch. The fact that it’s wirebound means that you can easily have it out on the bench for reference without worrying about the binding closing and losing the page you’re working on at a given moment.
Typewriter Cleaning Tools
Nylon, Brass and Steel brushes – these are good for a variety of purposes. The nylon brush is great for general cleaning an maintenance. The brass brush in combination with mineral spirits is perfect for cleaning type slugs which have heavy dirt, ribbon, and grime build-up and won’t damage the slugs. The steel brushes can be good for more aggressive cleaning of various rusted parts as necessary. Some care should be exercised though to ensure that the typebars aren’t so vigorously scrubbed that they are accidentally bent.
Chip brush – this type of soft bristled paint brush is excellent for handling dust, cobwebs, and other large debris when doing the first round of cleaning a typewriter. They’re also nice for regular weekly dusting of machines around the house.
Soft bristle fingernail brush – these have been excellent soft bristle brushes for use in cleaning typewriter external panels in conjunction with scrubbing bubbles or Simple Green cleaners. Their small size is particularly nice for getting into some of the smaller spaces that my bigger brush might miss. They’re also useful for getting the grease and grime underneath your fingernails after a day of wrenching on typewriters.
Libman curved hand brush – this has been excellent for scrubbing the exterior body panels of typewriters, particularly those with crinkle paint. The bristles are firm enough to scrub and get into small spaces without damaging the paint and stand up to some repeated use.
Cotton cleaning rags – these are excellent for a variety of cleaning uses, they’re fairly ubiquitous at hardware stores (especially the paint section), and definitely beat Q-tips for ease of use as well as cost.
General Typewriter Tools
4 pair of precision AA tweezers – these needle tipped tweezers are excellent for holding onto small pieces including small nuts or washers which sometimes need delicate handling while screwing screws into them. They can also be used for type slug soldering if necessary.
Needle nose pliers, duckbill pliers, and general purpose pliers – the bag came with duplicates of some of the sort I’d already had.
Screwdrivers – the bag came with a plethora of variously sized screwdrivers (mostly flathead), but I find they’re not as useful as some of my smaller precision screwdrivers which I use more frequently.
Jensen 8 piece open end ignition wrench set (with 7/32, 15/64, 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8, and 7/16 wrenches) for handling a variety of small nuts.
Specialty Typewriter Tools
Below are some of the more specialty and harder-to-find typewriter tools I’ve acquired, most of which came with the repair bag.
Two T-bar benders/link benders/type bar twisters – These thin bars with slots in the bottom and a T-bar at the top are used for bending or twisting a variety of typewriter parts which may need to be gently formed (typewriter repair-speak for bent).
Royal S-39 Ribbon Vibrator Arm Bender – This thin metal tool has two small slots cut into it for forming the Ribbon Vibrator Arms on Royals, but can be useful for forming a variety of thin metal parts. (see p. 360 of The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible)
Eyelet tool for putting small metal eyelets into typewriter ribbon. Generally I use this for Smith-Corona and other typewriters whose auto-reverse ribbon mechanisms are actuated by the metal gromets placed into the ends of typewriter ribbon spools. I picked this up when I switched from using pre-spooled ribbon to buying bulk ribbon and spooling it by hand.
I primarily use these to clean out the internals of most of my machines. Obviously care should be used to protect paint, plastic, and non-metal portions from these caustic solvents.
In cases where spattering or soaking issues may occur, I’ll use vaseline or other grease to cover up painted surfaces or decals so they’re not damaged, or I’ll cover things up (like keyboards with plastic or glass keys with paper legends) with thicker towels for brief exposures where soaking through isn’t a big concern. In some quick cases, like the painted logos on segments, I’ll just cover them with small pieces of packing tape which are easily removable without causing damage.
To help cut down on excessive use of these caustic chemicals, I make use of small plastic oilers with a long thin spouts to better limit and control the amounts of solvent I’m using. These are also useful for more accurately dispensing solvents onto small and specific parts.
Remember that these solvents should only be used in very well ventilated spaces and away from open flames or sparks which can easily ignite them and cause fires. Repeated exposure to the fumes of these materials can damage your lungs.
Mineral spirits
Lacquer Thinner
Acetone
PB B’laster – this is great, but has a more pungent, lingering smell than some of the other solvents
Cleaners
Scrubbing Bubbles – this is great for typewriter exteriors including crinkle paint and plastic of most sorts
Simple Green – a great cleaner and degreaser for removing decades of dirt, grime, and nicotine from the metal exterior of a wide variety of machines
Oil
Premium Sewing Machine Oil – this is great in sparing quantities for typewriter carriages and linkages which require lubrication. The pull-out extended spout is excellent for accessing the hard-to-reach interior parts of typewriters, particularly if they’re fully assembled.
Rem Oil – This aerosol-based oil is excellent for cleaning, lubricating, and providing corrosion protection for difficult to reach typewriter internals, particularly when you don’t have need to strip an entire machine down.
As ever, following up oil applications with compressed air can assist in thinning down oil on parts so that over-oiling and dramatic oil build-up doesn’t occur.
WD-40
Most will know of the regular caveats and admonitions about not using WD-40 to lubricate a typewriter, especially the segment. (Hint, it’s for Water Displacement—thus the abbreviation WD—and isn’t a lubricant.) However, WD-40 does work pretty well on crinkle paint finishes to provide both some protection as well as shine.
The clean front panel of a 1950 Royal KMG in gray frieze paint contrasted with the dust covers one of which is covered in 70 years of dust, dirt, tar, and hair and the other cleaned and sparkling after a treatment with WD-40.
Future
I’m still on the lookout for some keyring pliers for both round and tombstone keys as well as a variety of peening wrenches, but my general need for these has been relatively low for most of the work I’ve done thus far. It’s also a somewhat larger investment, but I really want a nice air compressor for more easily cleaning out machines. I’m also curious to do some research on durometer gauges for testing platen hardness and creating some guidelines about when to replace hardened platens. I’d love guidance on anyone who has researched this area before.
I’m also hovering on the border of doing professional typewriter repair part time on the side. I only have so much space to store repaired and restored machines of my own, and I feel guilty about restored machines sitting around unused. But I also enjoy tearing them down, repairing them, and restoring them back to their former glory. Why not turn my hobby into a part time gig for helping out others and carrying along the craft of typewriter maintenance, repair and restoration? It would also allow me the ability to work on a broader variety of machines.
What typewriter tools are in your collection, and, most importantly, how are you using them?
I always love hearing ideas, tips, and suggestions for making the work of typewriter maintenance and repair easier and more accessible for the home mechanic.
Editor’s note: This is another article in a recuring series of typewriter articles about typewriter use, collecting, repair, restoration, and maintenance. If the subject is of interest, feel free to delve into more of that collection.
Red Smith was asked if turning out a daily column wasn't quite a chore. ... "Why no," dead-panned Red. "You simply sit down at the typewriter, open your veins, and bleed." ---Walter Winchell, April 6, 1949 in the Naugatuck Daily News, p4, column 5
If opening up your veins at the typewriter and bleeding means something with respect to writing, then it must surely mean all the more when typing with a red ribbon on a Remington 666 typewriter which gives the type slugs the appearance of being covered in blood.
Ingredients: 1½ oz bourbon, 3/4 oz lemon juice, 1 oz sugar syrup, 1 barspoon powdered sugar;
Method: Shake well over ice cubes in a shaker, strain into a sour glass, add cherry.
u/Backpack_fetish (Reddit)
