Aggregated Resources and Playlist for a Crash Course on the Olympia SM3 Portable Typewriter
Along the way I’ve been aggregating some related Olympia SM3 (and other SM family) resources and videos which include several on use, a few comparing them to other machines (for those considering buying them), and a variety on taking them apart and adjusting them to peak performance including doing rack, ring & cylinder, on feet, motion, silent return spring, trip timing, and spacebar adjustments.

Olympia SM series typewriter Identification
First a note on the name. The SM designator is an abbreviation for the German Schreibmaschine Mittelgroß which translates as medium-sized typewriter (portable). This stands in comparison with Olympia’s SG series which stands for Schreibmaschine Groß meaning large typewriter (standard) and the SF series which stands for Schreibmaschine Flach or flat typewriter (ultraportable) .
Olympia typewriters are often identified with clear badging as to their make, but almost never have a model number listed on the typewriter itself. Originally identification was only done with the inclusion of a typewriter manual which listed the model name on the front of the brochure. Sadly, after decades of use, as with most typewriter manuals, it has frequently gone missing. This means that owners and collectors will typically need to be able to visually distinguish between the various models which can often be missing from online sales listings. How is one able to identify which model their Olympia typewriter is?
The best method is often to compare your typewriter against the examples of typewriters on the Typewriter Database, which, in addition to a primary page for all Olympia typewriters and their serial numbers, has individual pages for each machine with a wide variety of galleries of individual machines, viz.: SM1, SM2, SM3, SM4, SM5, SM7, SM8, SM9.
Differentiating the Olympia SM2, Olympia SM3, and Olympia SM4
The primary means of distinguishing between the SM2, SM3, and SM4 is the tabulator functionality or lack thereof. The Olympia SM2 doesn’t have a tabulator at all, so you won’t see the ability to set or remove tabs or a tab key on the keyboard. The SM3 has its tab sets on the back of the machine and a simple tab key on the top right hand side of the keyboard. Finally, the SM4 has tab set and clear keys on either side of the spacebar and the tab key in the same spot as the SM3. While there are other subtle differences between the three, which also showed small changes throughout the years they were made, the visual presence or absence of the tabs and their keys is the primary distinguishing feature that most collectors use to properly identify and distinguish among the three.
Most typically the Olympia SM3 typewriter came with a futuristic-looking, curvy-shaped silver case with a plastic strap handle while the SM2 and SM4 came with rectangular cases. There are definitely diversions from this rule of thumb, but it generally holds true which usually allows one to identify an SM3 simply from the shape of its case. Those restoring broken cases may find it interesting to know that the silver paint or the white and green case coversings are often hiding some spectacularly beautiful grained wood.
Be aware that the various models of the SM series were manufactured simultaneously and their serial numbers ran concurrently. As a result the serial numbers can’t be used to distinguish between them. Doing so requires looking at the variations of features and visual cues which are generally well documented on the Typewriter Database.
Differentiating the Olympia SM5, Olympia SM7, Olympia SM8, and Olympia SM9
The SM5 and SM7 were introduced at the same time in 1961 and are very similar to the internals of the SM4 mechanically. The SM5 was a less expensive model and the SM7 had a newer and more angular body.

The SM8 and SM9 were introduced in 1964. A primary change here is that they have a segment shift instead of the carriage shift of the earlier SM models. The SM8 is lacking both a keyset tabulator and touch selector which were standard on the higher end SM9. The SM8 also has body-colored carriage ends, rather than chromed ends used on the SM9.

Olympia SM3 Video Playlist
I’ve aggregated a variety of YouTube videos covering the Olympia SM3 typewriter as a playlist which cover general use as well as tear down, common repairs, adjustments, and reassembly. They appear in rough order of introductory to more advanced as well as in order of adjustments. Because of similarities across the SM line, these should serve as a good guide for other machines, though quick searches for specific models may reveal more relevant advice, particularly when it comes to small differences across the line (the shift from carriage shift to segment shift in the SM8/SM9 comes quickly to mind here.)
The only significant piece missing in the series is for cleaning them, but that’s remedied with an endless variety of videos (including one of my favorites) and advice from Richard Polt on restoration. I’ve also aggregated a large amount of advice on cleaning and oiling typewriters.
Special thanks should go to Duane Jensen of Phoenix Typewriter and Gerren Balch of The HotRod Typewriter Co. for the bulk of the work in creating and generating most of these videos.
Surely there are other excellent videos out there, but this list makes a pretty solid crash course which can be used as a jumping off point.
Olympia SM3 Rubber Bushings Replacement
If you’ve just purchased your first SM2, SM3 or SM4, you’ll want to be aware of the number one most common issue these machines have: the rubber bushings on the bottom have been compressed after years of pressure and will need to be replaced.
Visually looking at them is usually enough to diagnose the issue, but the problem usually presents as the carriage sitting noticeably lower than it should so that it rubs against the body of the typewriter and/or doesn’t move freely. Often the carriage will hit the side of the body and stop completely halfway across the carriage. Some people will notice that typing in lower case is troublesome, but that typing in uppercase doesn’t present any issues. Often these rubber spacers have been compressed and have hardened. In less lucky cases, (usually only) the rear bushings have turned into black tar, so you’ll want to take care to keep this tar off of anything nearby as it’s incredibly sticky and difficult to clean. It can definitely stain the case and/or the machine itself.
Fortunately the repair only requires some readily available generic rubber washers and a screwdriver to replace them. This is one of the quickest and easiest typewriter repairs to start off with and can be a good confidence booster for the beginning typewriter repair person. Incidentally appropriate washers should be approximately 1/4″ thick, large enough in diameter to provide some cushion, and with a hole big enough to fit the screw that holds the frame on. Your plumbers’ section at the local hardware store likely sells something appropriate. I’ve used Everbilt 00 1/4″ thick flat bibb washers with 1/2″ or 9/16″ OD. Others have reported good luck with Danco 1/2 rubber washer Universal (item #198804, model #88569) — 00 trade size with 1/2″ OD and 3/16″ ID.

If you’re a stickler and want to come as close to the OEM part as possible, the Olympia Spare Parts Catalog and Price List for Portable Typewriters Models SM1, SM2, SM3 (March 1959) pages 15 and 49 appear to indicate that you’ll want part number 93420-5x.6 Plastic washer 5x12x5.2mm. Though the catalog lists that part as a “plastic washer” and all the examples I’ve ever seen have been rubber, it seems to have the appropriate thickness to allow the carriage to clear the body shell for proper functionality.
If you’re reading this after you’ve gotten your new typewriter and can’t wait until the hardware store opens or your online order has arrived, but want to type right now without damaging your typewriter, I’ve written up a quick stopgap/temporary solution at A Stopgap Repair Solution for Impatient New Olympia SM3 Typewriter Owners.

Olympia SM Series Usage and Repair Manuals
Along with other typewriter manuals collected by Richard Polt, he’s got manuals for the Olympia SM3 in both English and German. Manuals for most of the rest of the series are available on his site as well.
And for the completist, you’ll naturally want copies of the repair manuals via Theodore Munk: [paperback] [digital]. There are also downloadable versions of a 1955 repair manual and a 1959 Spare Parts and Price List Catalog available.
Hopefully this aggregated list of resources will help the next Olympia typewriter enthusiast who finds one in grandma’s basement or who wants to kick off a writing career following in the footsteps of fellow SM3 typists including John Updike, Woody Allen, Frank Herbert, Patricia Highsmith, Robert Penn Warren, Harlan Ellison, Carson McCullers, John Hughes, Louis L’ Amour, William Gaddis, Stan Laurel, Ryan Adams, Ruskin Bond, Evan S. Connell, Kevin McGowin, or Anaïs Nin.
If I’ve missed any truly important resources, please do let me know.
Cheers!

8 5/8 x 5 3/4 x 4 1/8" exterior dimensions
putty color
A pittance of $5.00 at the local thrift shop also included a full set of Universal Paper Goods Stock No. 58-25 card dividers with both alphabetic and numeral printing.

I’m glad you finally managed to get your own segment pick from Paul at Bremerton Typewriter. They’re really quite lovely and clever. I will say that oddly, since I bought it, none of the typewriters I’ve gotten since are terribly gummed up as badly as a stretch of them I had gotten before and which were the reason I bought the pick in the first place! The luck of the repairman I suppose…
I must also admit that you seem to be another new member of the typosphere I’ve noticed who has Webmentions on your site! Kudos on that.
Best regards,
Chris
1971h3k77/CJA
cc: Tom Fasano, Ted Munk
Rubber Grommet Repair on Remington Super-Riters and Standards
Late last May, I did a full clean, oil, and adjust (COA) on my 1951 Remington Super-Riter. One of the few restorations steps I didn’t carry out at the time was the replacement of the rubber grommets on the two side panels and the rear panel. The rubber was so hard and brittle on most of them that they crumbled off leaving only the brass inserts. Some of them also left a sludgy black residue on the metal.


This weekend, I went foraging at the local Ace Hardware store to find some replacements for the originals.

I took a reasonable guess and for 27 cents each I picked up six grommets which were the perfect size. If you’re in the market for your own replacement rubber grommets, they were Hillman part number 55051-A with the following specifications: ID: 1/8″; OD: 11/32″; Thickness: 3/16″; Grove Diameter: 1/4″; Groove width: 1/16″ .

When I went to install them, I discovered that I was able to wiggle them into the holes in the side panels. I could also get the brass grommets back in with a bit of work. However, I couldn’t discern for the life of me why they included the brass grommets from an engineering perspective. Leaving them off seems to allow a nice friction fit of the panels on the appropriate metal pins against the rubber. Further, without the brass grommets one seems to get not only a better fit, but the vibration dampening of the panels seems to work better. I also suspect the grommet life of the rubber will be better this way in the long run.

I notice that my later 1956 Remington Standard has a similar design for the side and rear panels, but in that case they’d switched to a single center pin and put two bare rubber grommets on each side of it, choosing to leave off the brass internal eyelets by this time—apparently they came to the same conclusion I had. This means that this same rubber grommet repair can be done on a variety of Remington standard typewriters made after World War II.
Editor’s Note: If you’re cleaning or repairing your own Remington Standard from this era, be sure to check and see if it’s got the Fold-A-Matic feature for making your job much easier.
If for historical or consistency reasons, you insist on the brass gromets as part of the repair of your personal machine, you can certainly manage to use the originals with some care, however, if you’ve got your own eyelet tool (which many typewriter repair people may have for inserting eyelets into ribbon for the auto-reverse functionality of Smith-Corona typewriters) you can use it in combination with new 3/16″ (or slightly smaller) metal eyelets to more permanently seat your rubber grommets into your metal panels.
Have you tried this restoration trick before? What did you use for replacements?
As if he knew I was coming, Helmut had this lovely Royal/Triumph-Adler R 700 sitting right up front on the counter. It’s essentially a Royal-badged version of the Adler Universal 200 which was manufactured under the Litton regime. It’s a solid standard with some nice speed hiding under the hood. Helmut has added some nice touches of what he calls “lipstick” to zhuzh it up.


Okay Typosphere, Who else is using their typewriter to converse with others via web and Webmention?
I peeked at the code and saw a Webmention endpoint hiding in there and nearly fell over. Webmention is a web standard that allows any website to talk directly to any other website as if they were social media peers on the same platform.
I immediately fired up my new-to-me 1959 Olympia SM3 which also has a Professional Elite No. 41 typeface to dash off a note to Tom and his typewriter. I posted it to my website as a typecast reply. But most importantly, my website sent a webmention (think @mention/notification) to Tom that I had replied to his post. Voila! My reply was in his comments section just moments later, as if by magic. I’ve only done this a few times as there aren’t many typewriter collector/typecasting bloggers out there who’ve added the technology to their sites yet, but this certainly opens up a new space for typewriter social networking by way of the web rather than just via post.
The careful observer will also notice that because Tom syndicated his original post to Reddit and included a syndication link, he’s getting replies from Reddit back into his website via Webmention using a service called Brid.gy. So if you want to type up a reply to his post, or even this one, and post it to the Reddit thread you can participate that way (if your website doesn’t have the capability yet.)
Who else in the typosphere has a website that supports webmention? Let’s start a chat.

If you’d like to go deeper into the subject of Webmention, try this article in A List Apart: “Webmentions: Enabling Better Communication on the Internet“.

A visit to Helmut Schulze at Rees Electronics/Star Typewriter
If you’re looking for a really great refurbished machine, then this is the place to stop in and try out almost anything ever manufactured.
I have to admit, even for an experienced collector, this shop is overwhelming, so perhaps do yourself the favor of browsing what he’s got listed online to make a shopping list before you go! Without some prep you could easily spend a week here and not see everything much less try out a tiny fraction of what’s on offer.















What words could we use to better describe the soul of a typewriter?
I’ve heard “snappy” applied to the best typewriters, the worst typewriters, and nearly everything in between. While almost everyone uses it with a positive connotation, the noise of the depth and breadth of machines it’s used to describe has drowned out any signal of actual meaning for me.
I hear someone say that a “typewriter is snappy”, and it translates to me as the tautology that a “typewriter is typewriter-y”. Yet I know the difference between the action of an Olympia SM3 versus an Olivetti Lettera 32 are as markedly different from each other as a Remington Quiet-Riter is from an Olympia SG1. Even a freshly cleaned, oiled, and properly adjusted Royal KMG with a brand new platen is dramatically different from that same machine just out of a barn after 77 years of dust collection, cobweb accumulation, and abject neglect. Yet I know people who would call both of them snappy without a moment’s hesitation.
I get the feeling that many are attempting to use the word to describe the “action of the machine” rather than just the noise it makes or the “voice” it presents. One might say some sound flat and tin-y while others are solid and sonorous. One might describe a typewriter with a new platen as having the velvety sweetness of a romantic crooner. These words all get at something. They strive to touch the soul of the machine and how it functions. Snappy as an adjective to describe a typewriter has lost touch with the soul of typewriters. We need some new words!
What other words could we use to better describe the “action” of a typewriter’s key levers and typebar assemblies? Words that give more depth and actual meaning to the joy of typing on the wealth of machines that one might run across in the wild?
If you were to put these new words onto the perpendicular axes of speed (fast versus slow) and a measure like key travel distance (deep versus shallow) where would they sit? Are there other axes we should consider plotting the “soul of a typewriter” on to better situate descriptive words of typewriters, their condition, qualities, and how well they work? Maybe we include an axis of “press” from soft to firm? How might we verbally quantify the touch and feel of the keys and how they respond to the variety of typists? How might we better capture the engineering of a machine and how well it has been maintained? There are miles of distance between the performance of a Hermes 3000 and the typewriter-like simulacra known as the Maplefield Classic Portable Manual Typewriter. We need some words to help convey this to someone who lacks the personal experience.
I’ve got some ideas already, but I thought it would be more interesting to put the idea out to the creativity of the community to see how far we might expand the universe of the idea first.
What better words could we be using to expand the experience of the space?
What is the prettiest typewriter typeface?
I often see typewriter enthusiasts “debating” over which is the prettiest or best typeface, and often, they’re making their judgement on one machine they happen to have or really wish they had. Rarely are these judgements made with multiple typefaces on the same page for easier direct apples-to-apples comparison, so I threw together a small sample from a few in my own collection.
Gut reaction time: Which of these is your favorite?
Using the Fold-A-Matic feature of the Remington Standard to Clean, Oil, and Adjust
Remington Fold-A-Matic
Fortunately, before I had started I was aware of a possibly little known feature called the Fold-A-Matic. I came across the idea of the Fold-A-Matic while looking at other Remington Standards and Super-Riters on the TypewriterDatabase. This led me to a photo of James Groom‘s typewriter and a post by Ted Munk which had a diagram from a Remington repair manual. The fun of the feature is that by loosening a few screws, removing a few others, the entirety of the back end of the typewriter including the carriage folds open allowing easy access to almost all the parts of the typewriter. This means it’s far easier to clean, oil, and adjust almost everything on the machine.

So instead of spending a day and a half cleaning out a typewriter, I managed to do it in about half a day.
Since I didn’t come across any great photos of the machine opened up, I thought I’d document some of that process along the way.

To begin, one needs to loosen the screws that hold the top of the left and right body panels onto the typewriter. They can then be leaned out and quickly removed.
Next one removes the two screws (the rear ones labeled B in Monk’s diagram) on either side that hold the rear cover in place. It too pivots on a small piece of metal at the bottom so it can be easily lifted off and removed.
Next one can remove two screws in the carriage area (labeled A in Monk’s diagram), the other two “B” screws and the “C” screws on either side. Finally, one then loosens the two “D” screws at the back rear corners of the typewriters. It’s important that these should only be loosened a few turns as they’re used as a pivot to hold the rear of the typewriter in place. They could certainly be completely removed, but it takes some work to get everything aligned and back together again.
Now you can fold down the entirety of the rear of the typewriter, thereby opening it up for cleaning and adjustment. Of course, not everything is accessible in this configuration, but by removing the ribbon hood or flipping the machine over, the majority of the typewriter components are readily reached. This procedure takes just a minute compared to about 10-20 minutes of work to get other machines apart into a somewhat similar state. You save this time again on the other end when putting things back together. The other benefit is that so much of the machine can be easily reached and adjusted that less tweaking is required along the way. It cut my cleaning process roughly in half.




Missing/Broken Screws
One of the issues my particular model has is that the rear cover didn’t seem to have any means of holding it on. There were holes in the left and right side, but there didn’t appear to be any way for them to be used to hold the rear cover onto the machine. While cleaning, I discovered both of the screw heads (shoulder bolts, in fact) had been shorn off. Fortunately the screws were long enough that they exited the opposite side of their mounts, so I was able to easily remove them. I’ll have to find some replacement screws.

Historical Servicing
Given the age of the machine, the small chips and dings in the paint or the wear on some of the crinkle paint, it was reasonably well-used and likely cleaned and adjusted several times. It’s been a while since the last cleaning as some of the eraser bits inside the machine have stained some of the shiny steel. But I’ll note that the amount of oil used in the last service was very light at best. There were several patches of grease used on the mechanics on the sides as well as the axel of the mainspring and in the bearing assembly for the shift mechanism. I photographed these as evidence of how this model was serviced at some point in its prior life.



Additional points
After winding through some of the ribbon, I’ve found a usable patch. I’m curious to see if the dried out parts will absorb some moisture to be usable again. We’ll see what happens, otherwise, I’m sitting on a nice mountain of new ribbon to respool onto this machine.

After cleaning, I’m noticing that the speed of the machine has picked up a bit. I’ll give it a few days of use to see how things proceed, but I suspect that it could be faster. If it doesn’t improve, I may give it a few additional drops of oil in places, a process which dramatically helped out my Royal HH a week after cleaning it out. Pending this, I also ought to take a closer look at the touch control set up functionality.

The platen on this machine has a bit of play left, but not much. It’ll probably go another few years before it’s completely rock hard. At least I don’t need to have it recovered soon.
Cleaning and adjusting got rid of the residual grinding on the carriage I was experiencing a few days ago.
In the cleaning process, I noticed that one of the poor design choices is that the panels on the carriage don’t remove as easily as they do on other machines.
I notice on the paper fingers there are separately a small hole on the left for drawing straight lines using a pen or pencil and a small triangle on the right for similar usage.
As I’ve done on some past machines, I treated the crinkle paint with WD-40 after cleaning it off. The difference is quite dramatic, though even the before and after photos don’t really do the process justice.

As ever, there are still a handful of small issues with this machine that I hope to address in the coming weeks as I use it. I like it quite a lot, and it reminds me of it’s much smaller brother, a 1957 Remington Quiet-Riter, but with some finer features. I hope to pull it out and do a direct comparison in the next few days. We’ll see how it grows on me as a machine, but at the moment, I still like my Royal KMG and HH a bit better for day-to-day use.
Typewriter Use and Typewriter Maintenance for Beginning to Intermediate Typists
- How do I use a typewriter?
- How to take care of typewriters or do basic maintenance?
Naturally there is a ton of colloquial advice you’ll receive on these topics from social media and YouTube, but it’s uneven and not very complete. If you’ve just bought your first typewriter, you’re looking for a quick crash course in how to do the basics so you can start punching the keys, but still take care of your machine. With any luck, the resources on this page will get you up and running with your typewriter in no time at all.
Editor’s note: In an upcoming article, I’ll cover the basics for how to find/purchase and install typewriter ribbon in a variety of machines. In the erstwhile, know that Tom Hanks can teach you the basics or you can search YouTube for your make and/or model to see how others have done this or consult the manual for your machine if it’s available.
At the start of World War II, typewriter manufacturers quit making them to focus on war efforts as well as to save precious steel for the war. As a fortunate result of this, being able to use and maintain them became a way to show one’s patriotism for the general effort and the United States Navy was there to help. Thus the Navy made several short films about the basics of typewriter use and maintenance. Though made in 1942 and 1943, these films cover a lot of the basics incredibly well and even extend to later typewriters made into the 1980s, so some of the best advice can be quickly found and consumed in under an hour.
Lots of this advice could or would have been learned in a high school or college-based typing class or in secretarial schools from the mid-century onwards. Sadly a lot of it is now missing from basic keyboarding courses which place all of their focus and practice on touch typing.
Below, I’ve compiled may of the most useful films I could find online for the basics of typing, typing methods, typing techniques and even some advanced methods when using manual typewriters. It’s likely that even the most advanced typists will be shocked and amazed by these films and learn something from watching them.
United States Navy Training Films
Basic Typing
Basic Typing: Methods. Vol. MN-1512a. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztyzGit1dTI.
Basic Typing: Machine Operation. Vol. MN-1512b. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-REJEArnjE.
Advanced Typing
Advanced Typing: Shortcuts. Vol. MN-1512c. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0.
Advanced Typing: Duplicating and Manuscript. Vol. MN-1512d. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ve5JnTUzvo.
Typewriter Maintenance
Maintenance Of Office Machines. Vol. MN-1513. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocdxgkxKAKo.
Miscellaneous Training Films
Beyond these examples, several manufacturers and entities made instructional and industrial films and even sales films covering some typewriter basics over the years. Some may be machine specific, but their advice is applicable not only to those machines, but a broad array of many others which are all incredibly similar with respect to functionality. For machines that differ from the norm, you can often compare your particular machine and its manual to various others which are available online.
Content warning: Some of these films from the mid-century have outdated gender roles.
Elementary Typing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Moreland-Latchford Productions, Ltd.; Periscope Film, #15494, 1968. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cdyoPu_ASw.
The Secretary: Transcribing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Coronet Instructional Films, 1955. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7wAJki9ec4.
The Secretary: Transcribing (Second Edition). 16 mm, Instructional film. Coronet Instructional Films, 1966. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rYHNg3pM34.
Correcting Bad Typing Habits with the Smith-Corona Electric Typewriter. 16 mm, Industrial film. Periscope Film, c. 1952. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mQszbUhE30.
Typing Skills: Fields of Typing. 16 mm, Instructional film. Periscope Film, 1972. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvF0atKsggY.
Office Etiquette. 16 mm, Industrial. EBF Human Relations Film produced by Encyclopedia Britannica Films Inc. in collaboration with Hamden L. Forkner, Ph.D., Teachers College, Columbia University, 1950. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLF1STKnBTU.
Successful Secretary Presented by Royal Office Typewriters. A Thomas Craven Film Corporation Production, 1966. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=If5b2FiDaLk.
Additional Basics
Of course if you need some additional basics, which aren’t included in some of these, you should know:
Early typewriters conserving on the number of keys and what they were able to type relied on the operator knowing that different characters could be double purposed or superimposed to create new characters. These included:
- Using either the lower case “L” key or, less frequently for custom typefaces, the “I” key to type the number “1” which was often excluded from the keyboard.
- To make an exclamation point, you would type period “.” followed by a backspace and then an apostrophe ” ‘ “.
Editor’s Note: This is one of a continuing series of articles on typewriters and their use in 19th and 20 century settings. You can find additional information on that page.
Standard Typewriters versus Portable Typewriters and Ultraportable Typewriters
Standard (or office or desktop) typewriters were designed and meant for use in a stationary location, most often an office where they would be used for 8 hours a day (or more), every day of the work week. These typewriters, often tipping the scales at 25-40 pounds each, were made to take the heavy abuse of a daily typing and could be “pounded out” for 3-4 years before they were often given overhauls or remanufactured.

Portable typewriters were designed for greater portability and began appearing in the 1920s and in much greater numbers into the 1970s and early 1980s. Their sales were geared toward people who needed greater portability or who didn’t need a machine out on a daily basis the way in which businesses did. They were most often sold in small rectangular cases to aid in their portability as well as storability in cars, trains, airplanes, or even one’s closet when they weren’t in use. They often ranged from 15-25 pounds including their case. Most of these machines were sold to individual users for occasional rather than daily typing, and they often had a broader range of styling and colors throughout the years to appeal to the individual buyers.

Ultraportable typewriters were designed for the typist or writer constantly on the go. They typically had a low profile, were lightweight (under 15 pounds with their cases), and obviously easy to carry around on a regular basis. These machines generally didn’t have all of the frills or features of their larger counterparts but obviously got the job done well enough. Traveling journalists were originally one of the primary audiences here.

Which is better?
The “best” typewriter is going to be a highly personal choice. It will be based in part on a wide variety of factors and variables including:
- the condition (does it function? how does it function? how clean is it? have parts been replaced, repaired, or restored? is it serviced? is it well adjusted?);
- what your preference is in terms of functionality (do you need tabs? bichrome ribbon? card fingers? typeface? other?);
- your personal touch preference (how it feels to you when you type on it, how you enjoy and appreciate it);
- the price;
- your personal aesthetic (do you like older machines, newer machines, something with a pop of color versus industrial office drab, crinkle paint versus flat, metal versus plastic, and a slew of other design sensibilities, etc.)
- how are you using your typewriters? Are you actively using them to write, collecting them, displaying them, or a combination of all of these?
Beyond these variables the three broad categories of typewriters will differentiate themselves along the lines of size, portability, and design, and manufacturing quality, functionality, and durability.
Size, Portability, and Design
Obviously the smaller and lighter a machine is, the easier it is to carry. The ultraportables and portables will win out here. They’re designed to be moved around easily: pop it out, write, put it away when you’re done. Collectors love them because you can store or display them easily on shelves or stack them up in closets or other storage spaces. You can keep several dozen machines on a shelving unit or tuck them away under a bed or behind a couch.
Standard machines are moveable, but require some additional reasonable effort. It’s more bothersome to pick up a Royal HH, especially with a wide carriage, and move it across the house from your office to your living room or out onto the porch. It’s equally as bothersome to swap one standard from a display shelf with another so you can use it. This doesn’t mean that it can’t be done, but you’re not as likely to want to do it every day. With standards you plan to actively use on a regular basis, you’re going to want a permanent desk or typewriter stand to keep it on. If you’re storing or displaying standards, they require dusting maintenance or covers and take up much more space as they aren’t easily stackable. Standards tend to be deeper and require a larger shelf if you’re going to display them that way. (Be sure to measure as most standard bookshelves aren’t deep enough for most typewriters if that’s how you intend to display them.)
If you’re a day-to-day typist with only one or two typewriters, these problems aren’t terribly bad. If you’re a collector with 5-10 machines these considerations start to become more bothersome. Once you’ve got more than 25 machines in your collection, you’re going to want to start making different choices and plans about storage and display versus use.
When it comes to design, there are a lot more choices of body styles, colors, materials, and variety in the portable and ultraportable space. Even if the internals of a portable were relatively stable, the body styles and shapes changed every year or two. By comparison, the standard typewriters meant for office use tended to have more limited color palates (if you could call industrial blacks, grays, and browns a palate) and body stylings.
As an example, in the Royal line of standard typewriters, almost nothing changed functionality-wise from the Royal Ten through the H (and related KH, KHM, and KHT variants), KMM, KMG, HH, FP, Empress, and 440. This covers from about 1912 to 1968 with the same internal mechanics. It was just small changes in the body styles which moved very slowly and were generally only offered in one or two colors until the more colorful options on the Royal FP were introduced in the very late 1950s.
Manufacturing, Quality, Functionality, and Durability
The level of manufacturing and quality when it comes to typewriter categories is a much more subtle subject as it’s not as immediately seen as the size and portability factors.
Because of their use cases, standard machines were built with more solid materials using higher manufacturing tolerances and usually better quality steel (or other materials). They were designed to be pounded on every day for 8 or more hours a day for years at a time. While some portables may have been used this way, most weren’t and surely almost no ultraportables were. Most of the serious abuse that smaller and lighter machines took was generally to their cases in being moved around as well as to the various body panels from being put into and out of their cases. (Smith-Corona portables are notorious for scratches on the rear panels from the rear metal cleat in their cases and some of the Remingtons’ front “chins” from the late 40s case designs.)
Standards use in business also meant that the alignments and visual outputs were held to higher standards than their lighter counterparts which were more often used for personal correspondence or draft quality work. This required better tolerances to allow for the abuse versus the expected type quality and alignment. The quality differences are less apparent on some of the 1950 American made Smith-Corona 5 series or the incredibly well engineered German Olympias and Swiss Hermes portables of the 1950s and 1960s.
The quality issue becomes rapidly more apparent into the 1970s and 1980s when cheaper materials and plastic were being used in portable typewriter manufacture as machines were being mass produced by only a few companies and primarily only out of Japan. These quality issues are now at their zenith in the new millennium with cheap typewriters made by the Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company in China. Their new typewriter offerings under a variety of brand names including Rover, Royal Epoch, We R Memory Keepers, Royal Classic, and The Oliver Typewriter Company are widely known in the typewriter community for their dreadful quality control, cheap plastic, and both poor and unserviceable type alignment issues.
Because they had additional interior space and engineering capacity, standards also have better adjustment points for accommodating a variety of touch needs for the end user. At the time, most standards were generally serviced in-house by travelling repair people who had the ability to help typists adjust the machines to their particular touch needs. I’ve yet to run across a portable Smith-Corona whose primary touch control actually effectuated any difference at all, though they do have a variety of other more subtle/hidden touch controls which require advanced knowledge of the machines.
From a functionality perspective also differentiated across their use cases, most standard typewriters came with the full component of features offered in typewriters of their respective times. As an example, standards almost always came with tabulators and easier exchangeability of platens. Portable models often used tabulators as an additional mark up feature that cost more if you wanted them and platens were not easily swapped except on the highest end models and generally not until later into the 1950s. Here the range of subtle feature differences seen on the Smith-Corona 5 series portables is illustrative with the Clipper at the low end followed by the Sterling, the Silent, and the Silent Super at the highest end with the most features. On the German Olympias, the primary differentiating feature between the SM2, SM3, and SM4 is tabulator functionality and how easy it is to use if it’s available. Other features like bichrome ribbon, sturdier paper bales, paper table alignment features were considered optional on some portables and wholly missing on ultraportables which may have left them out completely. If you’re looking for a machine that has everything, usually a standard typewriter is your go-to choice. One of the few options on standard machines was a decimal tabulator for aligning accounting-based work.
While it may not have been as obvious in the midcentury, there are very subtle functionalities that standard typewriters offer to modern users who are looking for distraction-free writing affordances. While all typewriters have a greater level of distraction-free affordances in comparison to computers, standards offer two additional ones which may be wholly overlooked. As they’re less portable, they usually require a dedicated space for use which tends to call out to (or alternately guilt) the writer to sit down and concentrate on writing. The other is that the standard’s significantly larger size takes up a larger amount of area in your field of view while sitting at it. This tends to cut down on other visual distractions to the writer while sitting at the machine and working. Less distraction helps the concentration and, ideally, your ultimate output.
Finally, it bears a moment to look at typewriter serviceability. This is especially important now as the once ubiquitous typewriter repair shop doesn’t exist and aficionados and hobbyists do a lot of home repair. Since standard office machines saw near-constant use, their size made them much easier to get into and service, particularly by traveling repair technicians. Portables and ultraportables are much smaller and far more compact which requires more work and effort to open up and service when things go wrong or need repair. This size difference also means requiring a lot more patience and care as well as possibly smaller and/or different tools when doing service work on portables and ultraportables.
Hopefully this covers most of the finer points in choosing between the three broad types of typewriters for both the novice typist as well as the more practiced hands. If you’ve got questions or have noticed other subtleties in the differences between the three, I’d love to hear them.

