You’re invited to a Southern California Type-In!

Date
Saturday, May 10, 2025

Time
1:00 PM onwards

Location
Vroman’s Bookstore
695 E Colorado Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91101

2 blocks West of Lake Avenue, which has both East and Westbound exits off of the 210 Freeway.
We’ll be meeting upstairs on the second floor.  Parking available behind the bookstore as well as on surrounding streets. There is a handicapped accessible ramp (from the parking lot in rear) and entrance(s) with an elevator to the second floor as well.

What is a Type-in?

Type-ins are community-based, family friendly events at which typewriter enthusiasts share their love for the analog art of putting ink onto paper with mechanical marvels of the late 19th through 20th centuries. To do this they bring one or more manual typewriters and their knowledge and love of the machines to share with the community. New friends share stories, history, repair tips, working methods, and other typewriterly ephemera. Typists of all ages and levels of ability are welcome.

Typewriters optional
We definitely encourage those without their own machines to attend. With some luck and the kindness of new friends, you should be able to try out a variety of machines which are present in an effort to decide what styles and feel you might consider for purchasing one of your own one day. (Please kindly ask the owners’ permission before trying a machine out.) If you’ve got multiple typewriters, feel free to bring an extra for a friend.

“Like a jam session for people who like typewriters. You had unions do sit-ins and hippies do be-ins, so I thought, ‘We’ll do a type-in.’”
—Michael McGettigan, 56, bike shop owner who coined the phrase

Activities during the afternoon

  • Basic typewriter demonstrations covering: use, maintenance, and repair; how to find/buy typewriters, how to date the year of manufacture of your machine, etc.
  • Type up a message about how much your Mother means to you (May 11th is Mother’s Day)
  • Speed typing contest
  • Writing! (naturally)
    • poetry competition
    • letter and postcard writing;  bring some stationery/envelopes/stamps to write letters to friends & loved ones
    • Typing prompts for those who need inspiration for writing
  • Typewriter Art – composing visual pictures using ink on paper
  • Cadavre Exquis – a dedicated typewriter with paper is set up for participants to compose and write a group story, each taking turns throughout the event at writing one sentence at a time.
  • Impromptu lightning talks of 3-5 minutes on topics like “how to buy a typewriter”, “how to get into home typewriter repair”, “how to work a typewriter into your daily writing routine”, “how to join the Typosphere” etc.
  • Participants are encouraged to type up their experiences of the event for posting to their personal websites (aka the Typosphere).
  • Meet new pen pals to start exchanging letters via typewriter and post
  • Selfies with the typewriter mural on the front of the bookstore.
  • Typewriter repair advice: Have a broken machine and not sure what’s wrong? Get some advice from the community.
  • Bring and share your own ideas… What do you use your typewriter for?

Vroman’s Bookstore

Vroman’s Bookstore is a Pasadena institution and SoCal’s oldest indie bookstore since 1894 (almost as old as the invention of the typewriter itself!) While you’re visiting, be sure to check out not only their book selection, but their gifts and cards; the wide array of notebooks, stationery items and their fantastic fountain pen counter; and their children’s section. Downstairs stop by their and their excellent wine bar or Tepito Coffee Shop which will be open for snacks and beverages throughout the day.

Looking for Typewriter-related books while you’re there? Ask for some of the following:

  • The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century by Richard Polt (Countryman Press, 2015)
  • Uncommon Type: Some Stories by Tom Hanks (Knopf, 2017)
  • Typewriter Beach: A Novel by Meg Waite Clayton (Harper, July 2025)
  • Yankees, Typewriters, Scandals, and Cooperstown: A Baseball Memoir by Bill Madden (Triumph, April 2025)
  • Olivetti by Allie Millington (Feiwel & Friends, 2024)
  • Click, Clack, Moo: Cows That Type by Doreen Cronin (Simon & Schuster, 2003) as well as other follow up books in the series
Two rows of four typewriters each lined up on opposite sides of a table.
Who’s ready for a type-in?!?

RSVP & Questions

Our meeting space, which is frequently used for author talks and book signings, should be adequate, but please RSVP (with your expected number of typewriters) so we can plan for the appropriate amount of tables and chairs.

Questions? Media queries? Contact: ChrisAldrich@jhu.edu

Standard Typewriters versus Portable Typewriters and Ultraportable Typewriters

Within the typewriter space there are three broad categories of typewriters primarily based on size:

Standard (or office or desktop) typewriters were designed and meant for use in a stationary location, most often an office where they would be used for 8 hours a day (or more), every day of the work week. These typewriters, often tipping the scales at 25-40 pounds each, were made to take the heavy abuse of a daily typing and could be “pounded out” for 3-4 years before they were often given overhauls or remanufactured.

Portable typewriters were designed for greater portability and began appearing in the 1920s and in much greater numbers into the 1970s and early 1980s. Their sales were geared toward people who needed greater portability or who didn’t need a machine out on a daily basis the way in which businesses did. They were most often sold in small rectangular cases to aid in their portability as well as storability in cars, trains, airplanes, or even one’s closet when they weren’t in use. They often ranged from 15-25 pounds including their case. Most of these machines were sold to individual users for occasional rather than daily typing, and they often had a broader range of styling and colors throughout the years to appeal to the individual buyers.

Ultraportable typewriters were designed for the typist or writer constantly on the go. They typically had a low profile, were lightweight (under 15 pounds with their cases), and obviously easy to carry around on a regular basis. These machines generally didn’t have all of the frills or features of their larger counterparts but obviously got the job done well enough. Traveling journalists were originally one of the primary audiences here.

Which is better?

The “best” typewriter is going to be a highly personal choice. It will be based in part on a wide variety of factors and variables including:

  •  the condition (does it function? how does it function? how clean is it? have parts been replaced, repaired, or restored? is it serviced? is it well adjusted?);
  • what your preference is in terms of functionality (do you need tabs? bichrome ribbon? card fingers? typeface? other?);
  • your personal touch preference (how it feels to you when you type on it, how you enjoy and appreciate it);
  • the price;
  • your personal aesthetic (do you like older machines, newer machines, something with a pop of color versus industrial office drab, crinkle paint versus flat, metal versus plastic, and a slew of other design sensibilities, etc.)
  • how are you using your typewriters? Are you actively using them to write, collecting them, displaying them, or a combination of all of these?

Beyond these variables the three broad categories of typewriters will differentiate themselves along the lines of size, portability, and design, and manufacturing quality, functionality, and durability.

Size, Portability, and Design

Obviously the smaller and lighter a machine is, the easier it is to carry. The ultraportables and portables will win out here. They’re designed to be moved around easily: pop it out, write, put it away when you’re done. Collectors love them because you can store or display them easily on shelves or stack them up in closets or other storage spaces. You can keep several dozen machines on a shelving unit or tuck them away under a bed or behind a couch.

Standard machines are moveable, but require some additional reasonable effort. It’s more bothersome to pick up a Royal HH, especially with a wide carriage, and move it across the house from your office to your living room or out onto the porch. It’s equally as bothersome to swap one standard from a display shelf with another so you can use it. This doesn’t mean that it can’t be done, but you’re not as likely to want to do it every day. With standards you plan to actively use on a regular basis, you’re going to want a permanent desk or typewriter stand to keep it on. If you’re storing or displaying standards, they require dusting maintenance or covers and take up much more space as they aren’t easily stackable. Standards tend to be deeper and require a larger shelf if you’re going to display them that way. (Be sure to measure as most standard bookshelves aren’t deep enough for most typewriters if that’s how you intend to display them.)

If you’re a day-to-day typist with only one or two typewriters, these problems aren’t terribly bad. If you’re a collector with 5-10 machines these considerations start to become more bothersome. Once you’ve got more than 25 machines in your collection, you’re going to want to start making different choices and plans about storage and display versus use.

When it comes to design, there are a lot more choices of body styles, colors, materials, and variety in the portable and ultraportable space. Even if the internals of a portable were relatively stable, the body styles and shapes changed every year or two. By comparison, the standard typewriters meant for office use tended to have more limited color palates (if you could call industrial blacks, grays, and browns a palate) and body stylings.

As an example, in the Royal line of standard typewriters, almost nothing changed functionality-wise from the Royal Ten through the H (and related KH, KHM, and KHT variants), KMM, KMG, HH, FP, Empress, and 440. This covers from about 1912 to 1968 with the same internal mechanics. It was just small changes in the body styles which moved very slowly and were generally only offered in one or two colors until the more colorful options on the Royal FP were introduced in the very late 1950s.

Manufacturing, Quality, Functionality, and Durability

The level of manufacturing and quality when it comes to typewriter categories is a much more subtle subject as it’s not as immediately seen as the size and portability factors.

Because of their use cases, standard machines were built with more solid materials using higher manufacturing tolerances and usually better quality steel (or other materials). They were designed to be pounded on every day for 8 or more hours a day for years at a time. While some portables may have been used this way, most weren’t and surely almost no ultraportables were. Most of the serious abuse that smaller and lighter machines took was generally to their cases in being moved around as well as to the various body panels from being put into and out of their cases. (Smith-Corona portables are notorious for scratches on the rear panels from the rear metal cleat in their cases and some of the Remingtons’ front “chins” from the late 40s case designs.)

Standards use in business also meant that the alignments and visual outputs were held to higher standards than their lighter counterparts which were more often used for personal correspondence or draft quality work. This required better tolerances to allow for the abuse versus the expected type quality and alignment. The quality differences are less apparent on some of the 1950 American made Smith-Corona 5 series or the incredibly well engineered German Olympias and Swiss Hermes portables of the 1950s and 1960s.

The quality issue becomes rapidly more apparent into the 1970s and 1980s when cheaper materials and plastic were being used in portable typewriter manufacture as machines were being mass produced by only a few companies and primarily only out of Japan. These quality issues are now at their zenith in the new millennium with cheap typewriters made by the Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company in China. Their new typewriter offerings under a variety of brand names including Rover, Royal Epoch, We R Memory Keepers, Royal Classic, and The Oliver Typewriter Company are widely known in the typewriter community for their dreadful quality control, cheap plastic, and both poor and unserviceable type alignment issues.

Because they had additional interior space and engineering capacity, standards also have better adjustment points for accommodating a variety of touch needs for the end user. At the time, most standards were generally serviced in-house by travelling repair people who had the ability to help typists adjust the machines to their particular touch needs. I’ve yet to run across a portable Smith-Corona whose primary touch control actually effectuated any difference at all, though they do have a variety of other more subtle/hidden touch controls which require advanced knowledge of the machines.

From a functionality perspective also differentiated across their use cases, most standard typewriters came with the full component of features offered in typewriters of their respective times. As an example, standards almost always came with tabulators and easier exchangeability of platens. Portable models often used tabulators as an additional mark up feature that cost more if you wanted them and platens were not easily swapped except on the highest end models and generally not until later into the 1950s. Here the range of subtle feature differences seen on the Smith-Corona 5 series portables is illustrative with the Clipper at the low end followed by the Sterling, the Silent, and the Silent Super at the highest end with the most features. On the German Olympias, the primary differentiating feature between the SM2, SM3, and SM4 is tabulator functionality and how easy it is to use if it’s available. Other features like bichrome ribbon, sturdier paper bales, paper table alignment features were considered optional on some portables and wholly missing on ultraportables which may have left them out completely. If you’re looking for a machine that has everything, usually a standard typewriter is your go-to choice. One of the few options on standard machines was a decimal tabulator for aligning accounting-based work.

While it may not have been as obvious in the midcentury, there are very subtle functionalities that standard typewriters offer to modern users who are looking for distraction-free writing affordances. While all typewriters have a greater level of distraction-free affordances in comparison to computers, standards offer two additional ones which may be wholly overlooked. As they’re less portable, they usually require a dedicated space for use which tends to call out to (or alternately guilt) the writer to sit down and concentrate on writing. The other is that the standard’s significantly larger size takes up a larger amount of area in your field of view while sitting at it. This tends to cut down on other visual distractions to the writer while sitting at the machine and working. Less distraction helps the concentration and, ideally, your ultimate output.

Finally, it bears a moment to look at typewriter serviceability. This is especially important now as the once ubiquitous typewriter repair shop doesn’t exist and aficionados and hobbyists do a lot of home repair. Since standard office machines saw near-constant use, their size made them much easier to get into and service, particularly by traveling repair technicians. Portables and ultraportables are much smaller and far more compact which requires more work and effort to open up and service when things go wrong or need repair. This size difference also means requiring a lot more patience and care as well as possibly smaller and/or different tools when doing service work on portables and ultraportables.

Hopefully this covers most of the finer points in choosing between the three broad types of typewriters for both the novice typist as well as the more practiced hands. If you’ve got questions or have noticed other subtleties in the differences between the three, I’d love to hear them.

Save the Date: A Southern California Type-In on May 10, 2025

I’ve been in conversation with a local bookstore in Pasadena to help host a type-in in Southern California. We’re making plans for Saturday afternoon on May 10th from 1:00 PM onward. 

So mark your calendars, limber your fingers, and start tuning up your favorite typewriter(s)! More details and specifics to come shortly. 

If you’re nearby and can spare some time to help volunteer, drop me a line. 

Typewriter Market: It may be better if you didn’t get an Olympia SM3 typewriter today

I’m not out to shame people for their purchases, just to caution uninitiated typewriter purchasers and budding collectors who aren’t carefully watching the market.

Olympia SM3s are well-touted and excellent typewriters. They’ve recently been selling on ShopGoodwill in unknown condition for $120-150 based only on photos.

Earlier today, an Olympia SM3 sold for $334! So what gives? Why did this go for over twice as much as the average? To the uninitiated, the seasoned collector can look at this machine carefully and realize that even without seeing a type sample or a close up photo of the slugs that this machine is quietly hiding a script typeface of some kind. This means that two bidders would have paid an almost $200 premium for a script typeface, and one of them managed to snipe it for $1 with minutes left. Generally I see script machines going for $100-150 over similar machines without script.

Sadly, the high price on this machine earlier in the day may have suckered others into thinking these machines are significantly more valuable as it seems two other Olympia SM3s right after it both went for:

  • $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222707079
  • $202.03 https://shopgoodwill.com/item/222546519

And they were bid over 200 by the same two people while the “smarter” money stopped with bids at $137 on both.

Of course, neither of these later two machines have a script face, but at least two bidders were potentially reeled in by the much higher sales price of the script machine earlier in the day. This means that they’ve overpaid at least $50 above market for each, possibly thinking that they may have gotten a great deal. Sadly they didn’t, they just overpaid the market average. The person who was sniped on both managed to save themselves $100+ today because I imagine they’ll be able to get equivalent machines in the coming month for closer to under $150.

Incidentally another later Olympia portable (usually in the $75-120 range) earlier in the day went for a more reasonable $232 with a stated/photographed cursive typeface. This one was a stronger deal in the current market as they only paid about $110 above average for that machine to get the script typeface. The tough part is that because the description stated “cursive”, they didn’t have the benefit of possibly picking up a script machine with less competition.

While this is an interesting microcosm example of the current (overheated?) typewriter market (at least in the US), I hope all the buyers of these machines enjoy their purchases. If they’re your first Olympias, and they need some work to get back to fighting shape, I’ve put together a guide.

Using the Fold-A-Matic feature of the Remington Standard to Clean, Oil, and Adjust

Today I spent a few hours cleaning, oiling, and adjusting my new (to me) Remington Standard typewriter.

Remington Fold-A-Matic

Fortunately, before I had started I was aware of a possibly little known feature called the Fold-A-Matic. I came across the idea of the Fold-A-Matic while looking at other Remington Standards and Super-Riters on the TypewriterDatabase. This led me to a photo of James Groom‘s typewriter and a post by Ted Munk which had a diagram from a Remington repair manual. The fun of the feature is that by loosening a few screws, removing a few others, the entirety of the back end of the typewriter including the carriage folds open allowing easy access to almost all the parts of the typewriter. This means it’s far easier to clean, oil, and adjust almost everything on the machine. 

Simple conceptual diagram of the Remington Fold-A-Matic from a typewriter manual selling the benefits of the functionality. Featured is a diagram of red removeable panels followed by a diagram of the blocky typewriter being folded open.
Typewriter manual page from a 1960s Remington 19 typewriter.

So instead of spending a day and a half cleaning out a typewriter, I managed to do it in about half a day. 

Since I didn’t come across any great photos of  the machine opened up, I thought I’d document some of that process along the way. 

Technical diagram of the rear section of a Remington standard typewriter with indicators of which screws to remove to utilize the Fold-A-Matic functionality of the typewriter
From the Remington Standard Typewriter Repair section of AMES Basic Training Manual for Standard Typewriters by Murray Harris (January, 1968) https://typewriterdatabase.com/1968-Ames_Standard_SVC.remington-repair.manual

To begin, one needs to loosen the screws that hold the top of the left and right body panels onto the typewriter. They can then be leaned out and quickly removed. 

Next one removes the two screws (the rear ones labeled B in Monk’s diagram) on either side that hold the rear cover in place. It too pivots on a small piece of metal at the bottom so it can be easily lifted off and removed. 

Next one can remove two screws in the carriage area (labeled A in Monk’s diagram), the other two “B” screws and the “C” screws on either side. Finally, one then loosens the two “D” screws at the back rear corners of the typewriters.  It’s important that these should only be loosened a few turns as they’re used as a pivot to hold the rear of the typewriter in place. They could certainly be completely removed, but it takes some work to get everything aligned and back together again. 

Now you can fold down the entirety of the rear of the typewriter, thereby opening it up for cleaning and adjustment.  Of course, not everything is accessible in this configuration, but by removing the ribbon hood or flipping the machine over, the majority of the typewriter components are readily reached.  This procedure takes just a minute compared to about 10-20 minutes of work to get other machines apart into a somewhat similar state. You save this time again on the other end when putting things back together.  The other benefit is that so much of the machine can be easily reached and adjusted that less tweaking is required along the way. It cut my cleaning process roughly in half. 

Remington Standard viewed from above with all it's body panels removed along with several screws removed to allow the Fold-A-Matic functionality to open the rear/carriage of the unit for servicing.

Side view of the Remington Fold-A-Matic in action.

View from the back of a Remington Standard with the Fold-A-Matic rear panel opened revealing lots of eraser bits spread over the internals.

View from the back of an opened Remington Standard typewriter with Fold-A-Matic functionality. We see the carriage in the foreground, but we can see into the body of the typewriter's internals.

Missing/Broken Screws

One of the issues my particular model has is that the rear cover didn’t seem to have any means of holding it on. There were holes in the left and right side, but there didn’t appear to be any way for them to be used to hold the rear cover onto the machine. While cleaning, I discovered both of the screw heads (shoulder bolts, in fact) had been shorn off. Fortunately the screws were long enough that they exited the opposite side of their mounts, so I was able to easily remove them. I’ll have to find some replacement screws.

A hand holding a broken bolt next to the panel hole and typewriter frame into which it would have been screwed.

Historical Servicing

Given the age of the machine, the small chips and dings in the paint or the wear on some of the crinkle paint, it was reasonably well-used and likely cleaned and adjusted several times. It’s been a while since the last cleaning as some of the eraser bits inside the machine have stained some of the shiny steel.  But I’ll note that the amount of oil used in the last service was very light at best. There were several patches of grease used on the mechanics on the sides as well as the axel of the mainspring and in the bearing assembly for the shift mechanism. I photographed these as evidence of how this model was serviced at some point in its prior life.

Mechanics on the left side of a Remington Standard typewriter with the side panel removed. Several of the pivot points have brown grease caked up on them.

Right side view of the Remington Standard typewriter with the panel removed showing the mechanics of the ribbon selection system. The main pivot has brown grease caked on it.

An old splotch of grease on the mainspring of a Remington Standard typewriter

Additional points

After winding through some of the ribbon, I’ve found a usable patch. I’m curious to see if the dried out parts will absorb some moisture to be usable again. We’ll see what happens, otherwise, I’m sitting on a nice mountain of new ribbon to respool onto this machine. 

The right ribbon cup of a Remington Standard typewriter stained red from years of bichrome ribbon use.

After cleaning, I’m noticing that the speed of the machine has picked up a bit. I’ll give it a few days of use to see how things proceed, but I suspect that it could be faster. If it doesn’t improve, I may give it a few additional drops of oil in places, a process which dramatically helped out my Royal HH a week after cleaning it out. Pending this, I also ought to take a closer look at the touch control set up functionality. 

The type basket of a Remington Standard typewriter

The platen on this machine has a bit of play left, but not much. It’ll probably go another few years before it’s completely rock hard. At least I don’t need to have it recovered soon.

Cleaning and adjusting got rid of the residual grinding on the carriage I was experiencing a few days ago.

In the cleaning process, I noticed that one of the poor design choices is that the panels on the carriage don’t remove as easily as they do on other machines.

I notice on the paper fingers there are separately a small hole on the left for drawing straight lines using a pen or pencil and a small triangle on the right for similar usage.

As I’ve done on some past machines, I treated the crinkle paint with WD-40 after cleaning it off. The difference is quite dramatic, though even the before and after photos don’t really do the process justice.

Comparing the left and right body panels of a gray crinkle painted Remington Standard typewriter. The left is dull and dirty and the right has been cleaned and treated with WD-40 and sparkles in the sunlight

As ever, there are still a handful of small issues with this machine that I hope to address in the coming weeks as I use it. I like it quite a lot, and it reminds me of it’s much smaller brother, a 1957 Remington Quiet-Riter, but with some finer features. I hope to pull it out and do a direct comparison in the next few days. We’ll see how it grows on me as a machine, but at the moment, I still like my Royal KMG and HH a bit better for day-to-day use.

Starting Restoration on a 1956 Remington Standard

Spent an hour or two on the 1956 Remington Standard today and got most of the big mechanical and adjustment issues out of the way. There’s still a hint of grinding on the carriage at the return, but I suspect it will be an easy repair as I begin to dismantle the machine for a thorough cleaning.  I also got some of the bulk dust and dirt off of the exterior for the pending overhaul. It looks like this 32.4 pound beast is going to come roaring back to life. 

The ribbon reverse now works again (the switch is hiding just under the hood in the middle; the Super-Riter models put in a hole and added a lever on the front for easier access).  I rewound half the ribbon to discover only a portion on the left was dried out after decades of disuse. I’ll have to see about potential re-hydration or complete replacement. Discovered that this is my first typewriter model to have a top, bottom, and middle ribbon setting for even wear across the ribbon.

The machine is now in good enough condition to use regularly, but will be nicer and much faster once it’s been fully cleaned, oiled, and adjusted. I’m hoping this will happen sometime this coming week. 

Found an adjacent manual for it by way of the Super-Riter model which is very close in terms of features. Including mine, which is the third oldest in the list, there are only 9 of these models in the typewriter database while there are 26 of the Super-Riter. I’ll have to do some studying to see what the differences between this model, the Super-Riter, the No. 17, and the KMC were.

The KR key above the backspace is a “key release” mechanism which unjams multiple slugs so one doesn’t need to dirty their fingers on the slugs themselves. Features like this began showing up into the 1960s SCM machines of which I’ve got a few. This is my first Remington to have the feature.

Captured a quick typeface sample and identified the typeface as what appears to be the Remington Elite typeface with No. 2 uncial numbers which feature some nice waviness, especially in the 2, 4, 5, and 7. Looks very similar to the face on my 1957 Remington Quiet-Riter.

Type face sample for a 1956 Remington Standard typewriter.

For others in the future, I found the serial number on the Remington Standard underneath the carriage on the right rear portion of the body. It’s stamped into the frame right next to the rear metal wall of the back of the machine.

Typewriter Tools Upgrade

I’ve been wrenching on enough typewriters, that it was time to up my game again and add some new typewriter tools to the proverbial tool bag. In fact it was also time for an actual tool bag! So back on August 16th, I added a portable repair person’s leather bag and some new typewriter repair tools to my collection. For those interested in improving their skills and typewriter tools, I am documenting some of these new typewriter repair and maintenance tools. If you’re getting into the space, I highly recommend you slowly build your toolbox with items only as you need them.

With some of the harder-to-find tools, do take care as they can often be dramatically overpriced in online auctions. The more cost-conscious should be on the look out for bundles of tools which are usually much less expensive than purchasing them one at a time. Additionally if you search around a bit you might find local collectives of typewriter enthusiasts who share or loan out tools.

View down from above a table full of typewriter repair and maintenance tools.
Save the containers of solvents and the bottles of cleaning agents, all of the items which appear on this table fit comfortably into the black leather tool carrying case.

Papa’s Got a Brand New Bag

The leather repair bag I picked up is similar to one that late century traveling repair people would have carried with them for on-site repairs and typewriter maintenance. It has a compartment in the bottom with space for three metal trays of replacement parts. It has a side pocket for manuals and any necessary service paperwork. The main compartment has a large open space for a variety of wrenches, screwdrivers, and various other tools for use on the job. 

Until I create a dedicated space in the garage for typewriter repair, this bag makes an exceptionally convenient storage space for keeping all my typewriter related tools in one place. I particularly love the heavy leather and patina of it as a piece and it works reasonably well as a decorative item with the rest of the collection.  Modern variations of this bag can be found at purveyors like Crawford Tool which cater to copier, fax, and electronics repair spaces. Sadly leather covered wood isn’t an option, but there are a variety of soft cover, hard cover, and even metal or military cases available, some with extensible handles and wheels. 

The bag itself is in great condition given its age and general use.  It certainly helps that it was incredibly well designed and made with some seriously sturdy materials. The thickness of the leather is truly astounding compared to any bag I’ve ever come across. There are one or two pieces of leather that need to be repaired or re-attached to the wooden internal frame and a button/snap that needs to be repaired. These should be easy fixes for a rainy day.

A black leather repair case sits on a table next to a copy of the Typewriter Repair Bible. Various card catalogs, a book case and several typewriters can be seen in the background.

The scuffed, but still very solid and functional leather repair person's bag with brass fittings and latches. The initials E L are embossed onto the front flap.

Three thin metal containers for replacement parts can be slid into a small pocket on the side of the repair bag.

View into the bottom section of a leather repair bag showing a wooden sided compartment.

The side pocket of the leather repair bag is just perfect for the Manual Typewriter Repair Bible along with any paperwork a repair person needs.

Repair bag in front of which sits three thin metal trays. One of the trays is open showing a variety of small compartments for typewriter repair parts.

Because new stock isn’t much of a reality and I prefer to keep parts in situ on parts machines for use when needed, I haven’t been using the three metal parts containers as much as I might. Instead, I tend to use them as temporary receptacles of screws, nuts, and springs while I’m taking apart machines for restoration. This helps in keeping sections separate for easier re-assembly and having three means that I could be working on three disassembled machines at a time if I wish without getting parts from different machines confused.

New Tools

Since I wrote about a variety of some of the pictured spring hooks, oilers, and pouches from Crawford back in early August, I won’t cover those again, but I’m leaving a link to that post for those who may benefit from them. 

Along with the bag I acquired wide variety of wrenches, screwdrivers, tweezers, and some new specialty typewriter repair tools. The specialty tools tend to the higher end of typewriter repair and adjustment that most hobbyists can manage without, but which can be useful from time to time. 

Below are some of the new (and other recent) acquisitions:

Typewriter Manuals

  • The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible (wirebound; digital) – While there are a lot of great repair manuals out there, many specializing in one or more very specific models or series, this is probably the general repair manual you’d want in a pinch. The fact that it’s wirebound means that you can easily have it out on the bench for reference without worrying about the binding closing and losing the page you’re working on at a given moment.

Typewriter Cleaning Tools

  • Nylon, Brass and Steel brushes – these are good for a variety of purposes. The nylon brush is great for general cleaning an maintenance. The brass brush in combination with mineral spirits is perfect for cleaning type slugs which have heavy dirt, ribbon, and grime build-up and won’t damage the slugs. The steel brushes can be good for more aggressive cleaning of various rusted parts as necessary. Some care should be exercised though to ensure that the typebars aren’t so vigorously scrubbed that they are accidentally bent.
  • Chip brush – this type of soft bristled paint brush is excellent for handling dust, cobwebs, and other large debris when doing the first round of cleaning a typewriter. They’re also nice for regular weekly dusting of machines around the house.
  • Soft bristle fingernail brush – these have been excellent soft bristle brushes for use in cleaning typewriter external panels in conjunction with scrubbing bubbles or Simple Green cleaners. Their small size is particularly nice for getting into some of the smaller spaces that my bigger brush might miss. They’re also useful for getting the grease and grime underneath your fingernails after a day of wrenching on typewriters.
  • Libman curved hand brush – this has been excellent for scrubbing the exterior body panels of typewriters, particularly those with crinkle paint. The bristles are firm enough to scrub and get into small spaces without damaging the paint and stand up to some repeated use.
  • Cotton cleaning rags – these are excellent for a variety of cleaning uses, they’re fairly ubiquitous at hardware stores (especially the paint section), and definitely beat Q-tips for ease of use as well as cost.

General Typewriter Tools

  • 4 pair of precision AA tweezers – these needle tipped tweezers are excellent for holding onto small pieces including small nuts or washers which sometimes need delicate handling while screwing screws into them. They can also be used for type slug soldering if necessary.
  • Needle nose pliers, duckbill pliers, and general purpose pliers – the bag came with duplicates of some of the sort I’d already had.
  • Screwdrivers – the bag came with a plethora of variously sized screwdrivers (mostly flathead), but I find they’re not as useful as some of my smaller precision screwdrivers which I use more frequently. 
  • Jensen 8 piece open end ignition wrench set (with 7/32, 15/64, 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8, and 7/16 wrenches) for handling a variety of small nuts. 

Specialty Typewriter Tools

Below are some of the more specialty and harder-to-find typewriter tools I’ve acquired, most of which came with the repair bag.

  • Two T-bar benders/link benders/type bar twisters – These thin bars with slots in the bottom and a T-bar at the top are used for bending or twisting a variety of typewriter parts which may need to be gently formed (typewriter repair-speak for bent).
  • Royal S-39 Ribbon Vibrator Arm Bender – This thin metal tool has two small slots cut into it for forming the Ribbon Vibrator Arms on Royals, but can be useful for forming a variety of thin metal parts. (see p. 360 of The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible)
  • Keylever benders/typebar rollers – these are useful for adjusting typebars with respect to type alignment
  • Eyelet tool for putting small metal eyelets into typewriter ribbon. Generally I use this for Smith-Corona and other typewriters whose auto-reverse ribbon mechanisms are actuated by the metal gromets placed into the ends of typewriter ribbon spools. I picked this up when I switched from using pre-spooled ribbon to buying bulk ribbon and spooling it by hand.

Focus on a pouch of typewriter tools featuring pockets for a variety of screwdrivers, some hemostat, a pair of wire cutters and some plastic brushes. A portion of the table of typewriter repair tools featuring four pair of pliers, some spring hooks, a plastic packet of small c-wrenches, some cotton wiping cloths, a pair of typebar pliers and two T-benders Focus on three black pouches of tools with screwdrivers, hemostats, plastic brushes, a variety of metal tweezers, an adjustable wrench, a bar bender, several tooth brushes and a large red plastic pouch full of a variety of increasingly larger screwdrivers. In the back corner is a copy of the 400+ page The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible

Solvents, Cleaners, and Oil

I’ve written a bit in the past about some of the products and methods for cleaning and oiling typewriters. Below is a list of the solvents, cleaners and oils I use in my typewriter repair and maintenance practice.

A table top arrayed with

Solvents

I primarily use these to clean out the internals of most of my machines. Obviously care should be used to protect paint, plastic, and non-metal portions from these caustic solvents.

In cases where spattering or soaking issues may occur, I’ll use vaseline or other grease to cover up painted surfaces or decals so they’re not damaged, or I’ll cover things up (like keyboards with plastic or glass keys with paper legends) with thicker towels for brief exposures where soaking through isn’t a big concern. In some quick cases, like the painted logos on segments, I’ll just cover them with small pieces of packing tape which are easily removable without causing damage.

To help cut down on excessive use of these caustic chemicals, I make use of small plastic oilers with a long thin spouts to better limit and control the amounts of solvent I’m using. These are also useful for more accurately dispensing solvents onto small and specific parts. 

Remember that these solvents should only be used in very well ventilated spaces and away from open flames or sparks which can easily ignite them and cause fires. Repeated exposure to the fumes of these materials can damage your lungs.

  • Mineral spirits
  • Lacquer Thinner
  • Acetone
  • PB B’laster – this is great, but has a more pungent, lingering smell than some of the other solvents

Cleaners

  • Scrubbing Bubbles – this is great for typewriter exteriors including crinkle paint and plastic of most sorts
  • Simple Green – a great cleaner and degreaser for removing decades of dirt, grime, and nicotine from the metal exterior of a wide variety of machines

Oil

  • Premium Sewing Machine Oil – this is great in sparing quantities for typewriter carriages and linkages which require lubrication. The pull-out extended spout is excellent for accessing the hard-to-reach interior parts of typewriters, particularly if they’re fully assembled.
  • Rem Oil – This aerosol-based oil is excellent for cleaning, lubricating, and providing corrosion protection for difficult to reach typewriter internals, particularly when you don’t have need to strip an entire machine down.

As ever, following up oil applications with compressed air can assist in thinning down oil on parts so that over-oiling and dramatic oil build-up doesn’t occur. 

WD-40

Most will know of the regular caveats and admonitions about not using WD-40 to lubricate a typewriter, especially the segment. (Hint, it’s for Water Displacement—thus the abbreviation WD—and isn’t a lubricant.) However, WD-40 does work pretty well on crinkle paint finishes to provide both some protection as well as shine. 

The clean front panel of a 1950 Royal KMG in gray frieze paint contrasted with the dust covers one of which is covered in 70 years of dust, dirt, tar, and hair and the other cleaned and sparkling after a treatment with WD-40.

Future

I’m still on the lookout for some keyring pliers for both round and tombstone keys as well as a variety of peening wrenches, but my general need for these has been relatively low for most of the work I’ve done thus far. It’s also a somewhat larger investment, but I really want a nice air compressor for more easily cleaning out machines. I’m also curious to do some research on durometer gauges for testing platen hardness and creating some guidelines about when to replace hardened platens. I’d love guidance on anyone who has researched this area before.

I’m also hovering on the border of doing professional typewriter repair part time on the side. I only have so much space to store repaired and restored machines of my own, and I feel guilty about restored machines sitting around unused. But I also enjoy tearing them down, repairing them, and restoring them back to their former glory. Why not turn my hobby into a part time gig for helping out others and carrying along the craft of typewriter maintenance, repair and restoration? It would also allow me the ability to work on a broader variety of machines.

What typewriter tools are in your collection, and, most importantly, how are you using them?

I always love hearing ideas, tips, and suggestions for making the work of typewriter maintenance and repair easier and more accessible for the home mechanic.


Editor’s note: This is another article in a recuring series of typewriter articles about typewriter use, collecting, repair, restoration, and maintenance. If the subject is of interest, feel free to delve into more of that collection.

Jim Halpert of The Office and a 1950s Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriter

In an homage to The Da Vinci Code (2006), in season nine of The Office in episode twelve “Customer Loyalty”, Jim Halpert uses a mid-1950s Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter to forge a letter from Robert Dunder which sends Dwight Schrute on a faux quest for the holy grail in what Jim calls “The Dunder Code”.

Jim Halpert in blue shirt and tie is working at his desk in front of a gray Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter. Jim Halpert pulls a sheet of paper out of a Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter with a flourish. Jim Halpert with a mischevious grin applies an invisible message to a typed letter with lemon juice. To his right side sits a brown Royal Quiet De Luxe typewrtiter.

Fine Line Ribbon for your Typewriter Ribbon Needs

I’ve yet to find a bulk dealer in typewriter ribbon that has a significant website with listings of their offerings and options. (Let’s hear it for analog!) Baco Ribbon certainly didn’t, so I called a few times and made some orders and pieced together most of what Baco Ribbon & Supply Co. offers

Fine Line Ribbon also has some excellent bulk offerings and an almost non-existent website. I thought I’d make a similar post with their current offerings so that those who have typewriter collections that go past 5 machines or who are scaffolding their way to opening typewriter repair shops might have an easier time of selecting and ordering the appropriate ribbon. 12-15 cents per yard of ribbon in bulk is so much better than paying almost a dollar per yard otherwise. It pays for itself pretty quickly. 

They offer ribbon in both nylon and silk in partial and full reels. (Sorry, no cotton ribbon offerings at the moment.)

Silk Typewriter Ribbon

For silk, Fine Line Ribbon only offers black/red or black ribbon color options at $0.33 per yard. A full reel of silk is 545 yards.

Nylon Typewriter Ribbon

For nylon, whose full reels are 660 yards, Fine Line Ribbon can ink in any of the following single color options or your choice of any two colors as a bichrome option:

  • Black
  • Blue
  • Brown
  • Green
  • Orange
  • Pink
  • Purple
  • Red

They often have partial reels of most colors available. Black or Black/Red nylon is $0.12 per yard and other colors or color combinations are $0.15 per yard.

Contact information

Fine Line Ribbon, Inc.
Theresa Strunc

2405 N. Preston Street
Ennis, TX 75119 United States

theresa@finelineribbon.net
+1 (972) 875-8681
+1 (800) 527-0354

https://finelineribbon.net/


† At present, Fine Line Ribbon only offers pink as a standalone color and not as a bichrome option with other colors.

Typewriter 101 on Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood

If you’re working at getting the little ones started into typewriters (or just starting out yourself), Mr. Rogers covers some of the basics in episode 1083 of Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood from February 25, 1970. 

You can see Mister Rogers demonstrate the use of what appears to be a Royal Futura 800 in the full episode here: https://misterrogers.org/episodes/typewriters/

“I was very much interested in letters.”
—Fred Rogers

While he used a Futura in the show, his personal typewriters included a 1930’s Royal portable (possibly a Model O?) and a Royal KMG, which can be visited at the Fred Rogers Institute by joining the 143 Club.

 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by Amber Guetebier (@aguetebier)

And if you’re a serious fan, you’ll potentially have a Royal KMG and Futura of your own.

A gray Royal KMG standard next to a blue Royal Futura 800 on a wooden table. In the background is a wooden library card catalog with a 1930s black enamel typewriter and various decorations.
My mini facsimile Fred Rogers typewriter collection.

Restoring a 1950 Royal KMG Typewriter

I spent some time this past week and over the weekend beginning restoration on my 1950 Royal KMG (Keyset Magic Grey) and getting it back “on [its] feet”.

  • fixed the grinding carriage
  • formed the bent rear tabulator enclosure
  • stripped down the body and did a full flush/cleaning on interior
  • light oiling
  • repaired disconnected typebars Q and @ by shifting the fulcrum pivot wire
  • repaired issues with the shift keys
  • formed the bar on shift assembly to improve the shift response which was abominably slow even after cleaning
  • fixed tab set/clear issues
  • tightened the loose mainspring for better typing tension/response
  • got the type “on feet” and made an adjustment to the motion
  • replaced ribbon
  • adjusted the typing line
  • scrubbed and shined the exterior
  • light polish and cleaning of typebars
  • polished the brights and the glass tombstone keys (wish I had keyring pliers for doing a full job on this)
  • removed the keyrings on two keys which desperately needed cleaning and adjustment
  • ordered new rubber feet and rubber compression fittings which should arrive later this week

I’ve definitely torn this machine down much further than any other I’ve worked on before, in some part because it required some extensive work, but also just for fun. I think after this I’m ready to completely disassemble an entire machine and rebuild it from scratch. Maybe on a Royal KMM or Royal X?

I’ve done enough work on this now that I can put it into my regular daily rotation. It’s sure to reveal a few additional small adjustments as I use it and there are one or two niggling things to tinker on while I wait for the new rubber parts to show up. I’ll also need to find an original metal pair of Royal standard ribbon spools. I suspect as the budget allows I’ll be replacing the platen on this shortly as well.

I’ve dubbed this machine “Slattery” in homage to John Slattery’s performance of the character “Roger Sterling” in Mad Men (AMC, 2007-2015). I’m sampling Scotches and bourbons to find an apropos pairing

This typewriter (29 pounds) is the much bigger brother to my Henry Dreyfuss designed 1949 Royal Quiet De Luxe (16.8 pounds with the case, not pictured). 

A hulking gray 1950 Royal KMG standard typewriter next to it's much smaller relative, the 1949 Royal Quiet De Luxe as they sit on an oak library card catalog.

The Royal KMG, manufactured from 1949-1952, was known to have been used by writers including Saul Bellow, Edward Abbey, Joan Didion, Elia Kazan, Arthur Miller, Fred Rogers, Rod Sterling, Carl Reiner, Grace Metalious, Wallace Stenger, John Ashbery, and George Sheehan. 

If you’re restoring or repairing a Royal standard typewriter, I’ve started a YouTube playlist of videos, but it’s only got three videos with several more to come.

Photos from the restoration

View into the dusty bottom of a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter featuring the shift post with the springs and nuts for the on feet and motion adjustments as well as the shift spring assembly. Above these are the type rods and springs which attach to the keys and typebars, which are unseen here.

Close up of the dirty, hairy inside of a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter with a close up of the black, cracked and heavily compressed rubber foot. This will definitely require cleaning and replacement

A blue plastic air gun at a car wash is being pointed at a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter in the back seat of a car before the typewriter is "blown out".

A wooden dining table with a partially disassembled 1950 Royal KMG typewriter on it surrounded with a variety of typewriter tools, screwdrivers, and the pieces from the typewriter.

A variety of parts removed from a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter including the cover, the side panels, the platen, ribbon, feet assembly and a variety of wrenches.

Close up of the left side of a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter featuring the paper table, the roller release lever and the right margin set lever. On the rear we can see the row of hundreds of tab clips used for the tabulator functionality.

Close up of a naked 1950 Royal KMG typewriter which fills the photo.

Close up of the typing point, naked carriage and part of the segment of a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter

The four feet from the typewriter featuring four shoulder bolts, black metal brackets, and crushed, aged, and disintegrating black rubber.

Plastic typewriter spools with black ribbon which is so heavily worn you can almost read the imprinted type on them. Another round of use and we'll be able to see holes in the ribbon.

The clean front panel of a 1950 Royal KMG in gray frieze paint contrasted with the dust covers one of which is covered in 70 years of dust, dirt, tar, and hair and the other cleaned and sparkling after a treatment with WD-40.

Small globs of drying carnuba paste wax on the glass tombstone keys of a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter

Side angle of a 1950 Royal KMG typewriter with a bookshelf and a chair with another typewriter on it in the background. This feels very warm and homey.

Hero 1950 Royal KMG typewriter on a library card catalog next to a small orange decorative pie pumpkin and a kindergarten-made black toilet paper roll black bat with googly eyes, wings, and silver decorations drawn on it.

Learning Typewriter Maintenance and Repair

So you want to be a typewriter mechanic? 

As some typewriter collectors have realized there is a typewriter revolution going on out there. This means that there’s a growing need for people who can clean, maintain, repair, and restore typewriters. If this sounds like something you’re interested in doing, there are a huge number of resources out there that you can tap into to figure out how to do all of this work on your own. 

I’ve been wrenching on my own typewriters for several years and gotten deeper into the hobby over the past six months, so I thought I’d do a brain dump and outline some of the basic resources for those who are interested either in fixing up their own machines or potentially considering starting a repair shop.

Crash course on typewriter maintenance and repair

A list of resources and references for the budding typewriter repair person. There is a lot here that I’ve compiled and consumed, so don’t be overwhelmed. Half the battle is figuring out where to find all these things, so if nothing else, this should shave off a month or two of reading and researching.

Basic Introductory Material

Get a notebook and be ready to take some notes so you’ll remember where you found the random information you’re bound to pick up over time and are able to occasionally review it.

First watch this video on how a mechanical typewriter works. While it’s specific to the early Underwoods, the general mechanisms on almost all other typewriters are broadly similar.

Work your way through Sarah Everett’s excellent Typewriter 101 videos (at least the first five).

Read Richard Polt’s book which is a great overview to the general space:  

Polt, Richard. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press, 2015.

Next watch the documentary California Typewriter (Gravitas Pictures, 2016). It has some interesting subtle material hiding within it, but it will give you a good idea of where you’re headed off to. [YouTube copy; Archive.org copy]

Get a machine (or four) you can practice on. Get a flat head screwdriver and maybe a small adjustable wrench. Buy some mineral spirits and a small headed toothbrush and clean out your first machine. Buy some light sewing machine oil and try oiling it. Search YouTube for videos about how to repair anything that may be wrong with it. Usually 98% of the issues with most typewriters these days is that they need to be cleaned out.

Repair Manuals

Create an account on The Typewriter Database which will give you some additional access to catalogs, manuals, and dealer catalogs beyond what is available without an account.

If you intend to buy a bunch of these, you can get a discount by being a member of Ted Munk’s Patreon site. His personal website also has a plethora of ephemera that is often useful.

Richard Polt’s list of free service manuals and books also includes some correspondence course typewriter repair classes which are meant for the self-taught. Most typewriters are very similar so picking a good generic text that covers the basics is the best place to start before branching out to specific repair manuals for particular models.

Tools

In rough order of increasing complexity:

Tools can be expensive, so start out small with just a few things and expand as you need them. You’ll be amazed at what you can accomplish with a single thin bladed flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench, a rag, a bottle of Simple Green cleaning solution, and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol. Most people probably already have these tools at home.

Videos

Subscribe to and become acquainted with YouTube channels like the following:

While watching a variety of videos is great, as you’re doing specific repairs search YouTube and you’re likely to find full demos of the repairs you’re doing yourself. This is where having a solid knowledge of typewriter parts and terminology can be useful. Almost every typewriter manual ever written has a diagram with the parts labeled. Hints for a Happy Typewriter has a pretty good set of typewriter terms to get you started.

I’ve compiled a playlist of videos for repair of an Olympia SM3 which, while specific to the SM3, is a an excellent outline/overview of how to disassemble a portable typewriter, where many of the adjustment points are as well as an outline of the order to do them in.

United States Navy Training Films

If you’re not a good typist or don’t have experience in the area, try out some of the following short films which will also provide some useful historical perspective:

The good news is that historically very few typewriter mechanics were also touch typists, but you should still be able to hunt and peck and understand the needs of your customers.

Internships & Apprenticeships

If you have the time and flexibility try arranging an internship or apprenticeship with a local typewriter repair shop. Meet your local repair people even if you can’t spend the time on an internship. You’ll learn a lot and create relationships with businesses who will more easily swap/supply you with machines they’re parting out or access to tools which may otherwise be difficult to source.

If you’re all-in, maybe you might try the Philly Typewriter Trade School?

Visiting type-ins can be a great way to meet people and discuss typewriter repair as well as see tools and other machines on your journey.

Podcasts

Some useful Bibliography

Good luck on your journey!

Photos of Typewriters for the Typewriter Database

In addition to the ton of resources (serial numbers, manuals, repair manuals, manufacturing data, typefaces, patents, etc.) provided by TypewriterDatabase.com, one of the primary features provided are the wonderful photos users upload of their typewriters. 

These photos have lots of uses from basic identification to showing historical conditions of machines or highlighting immaculate restoration work. They also allow tracking changes in manufacturing methods and materials over time as well as documenting machines which may eventually become so rare as to eventually fade from memory beyond their archiving on the site.

One of the difficult parts of documenting your own models on the site seems to be getting a good “hero” or primary photo of your machine to represent it in various locations within the database. (The database labels them “Main front-face Typewriter” in the user interface.) This primary photo is usually the first one you upload and it is used in the “Most Recently Edited Typewriter Galleries” on the front page which shows thumbnail photographs, in individual model galleries, in the various “Grid View” (GRD), “Typewriter Porn View” (TPV), and the “Serious Research Views” (SRV) provided by the database. This primary photo is the one that represents each machine in almost all of the main areas of the database and is usually the one that draws viewers and researchers into its individual gallery to find out more detail about it. 

Sadly, most of these primary photos seem to be taken and thrown up onto the database and the manner in which they’re presented is far from ideal. They’re often off-center, appear to be close up shots of random typewriter parts, or just plain unidentifiable. Even the so-called TPV or “Typewriter Porn View” photos are far from their descriptor; many would turn you off of a model altogether regardless of whether it’s a stunning Sholes and Glidden, a well-tuned Hermes, or a truly dreadful We R Memory Keepers plastic doorstop.

A 4 column by 3 row grid of typewriter photos mostly featuring a hodgepodge of angles and mostly just keys. The bottom right corner features a nice full view of a Royal Quiet De Luxe. It definitely stands out from the rest.
Which of these photos is not like the others?

 

So the question is, how can we easily make these primary photos into the “hero” or typewriter porn photos they’re really meant to be? The secret lies in how the photo is laid out originally so that when it’s uploaded, all of these views are immediately accommodated. The Typewriter Database automatically crops photos down in a simple grid format to generate all of the thumbnails and custom views. Knowing exactly what it’s doing will allow you to take a simple, straightforward photo and upload it so that everything looks perfect without needing to modify or edit anything at all. (This also makes it simpler for lots of photos to be uploaded more quickly.)

For the Main front-face Typewriter photo, the database is expecting a landscape photo roughly broken up into imaginary thirds both horizontally and vertically splitting the image into nine rectangles. If you imagine a tic-tac-toe grid imposed on your photo as you take it, you’ve got the right idea. These days, most cameras and smartphones actually have software settings that will superimpose imaginary grids just like this onto your screen which makes doing this even easier. The diagram below will give you an idea of what I mean.

With this 3 x 3 grid imagined on your picture, center your typewriter exactly in the middle square. This center square is exactly what the database will display as the square thumbnail or “grid view” photo. 

Next for the same picture consider only the three rectangles horizontally across the center of the picture. These three will become the TPV or “Typewriter Porn View” photo that’s displayed in the various galleries.

3 x 3 grid drawn onto a white index card. In the center square is a pencil sketch of a typewriter. In the rectangle just to the left of it is an overlay of where the TWdB overlays one's avatar and typewriter information.

After you’ve taken the photo you’re going to feel as if there’s a lot of wasted space. When you look at it, it’s going to feel like the typewriter almost isn’t there. Why is it so small and lonely in the picture? But things will improve dramatically when you upload it and look at it in all the database views. Your sexy typewriter is going to shine online like it never would have before. Because you’ve done a little bit of planning, all those custom views are going to automatically look as lovely as you intended them to.

When uploaded, this photo 

An oak library card catalog with a cream and black Remington 666 typewriter featured in the middle and flanked by two stuffed Halloween characters. At the back of the catalog is a magnum of Fireball Cinnamon Whisky and a crystal old fashioned glass with ice and whisky. The bottle of Fireball features a black label with a red flaming devil on it coordinating with the bright red ribbon in the typewriter which is emblazoned with the model number "666" in red across its front.

becomes this thumbnail grid photo

A thumbnail grid photo of a Remington 666 typewriter which fills the frame of the photo

and this TPV photo

A wide shot of a well-framed Remington 666 typewriter flanked by two small quirky, kawaii stuffed animals (one a white ghost and the other a black cat). On the far left is an overlay with details about the typewriter and an avatar of the collector.

Would you rather see this:

A grouping of three Typewriter Porn Views of three different typewriters which look well displayed and sexy.

Or this:

A landscape photo of a cheap plastic Petite Ultra 400 typewriter, but the typewriter is horribly framed and we're given a close up of the label ad the typebasket and a small portion of the top row of keys. It's generally an unappealing photo.

 

Pro TWdB tip: If you’ve got an account and you’re logged in, you’ll see indicators of which galleries have been recently commented on and how many comments they’ve got. This is where some of the smartest people in the typosphere can often be found hiding in plain sight. The database doesn’t have a notification system, but this is as close as it gets.

Other photos to consider

Once you’ve figured out your hero photo, you may ask yourself what other sorts of photos you might want to include in your gallery. Naturally having front, sides, back, top and some oblique angle views are excellent ideas. It’s often useful to include other photos researchers might appreciate or have specific uses for. These additional gallery photos are all displayed full-sized as you’ve uploaded them, so you don’t have to worry as much about any cropping worries or issues when you’re taking them. Just focus on getting great photos.

Does the typewriter have a special font? If it does, definitely include a close up photo or two of the type slugs so that people can see the small foundry markings between the two (or more) characters on each slug. This may help to better identify typefaces in the future. 

Close up of the typeslugs on the lefthand side of the basket on a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe with a Vogue typeface. The keys feature the letters and symbols from Q through X including the distinctive overlap of the center crossing lines of the capital W. Between characters on each the slugs are stamped with a small letter "v".
This close up allows one to see the “V” on the typeface indicating that it’s an uncommon Royal Vogue machine.

Does the typewriter have special features? If so, get close up photos of them. 

Does the typewriter have a custom paint job? Show it off with lots of photos and close ups. Most of my liked photo galleries on the database are machines with lush custom paint jobs.

Did you clean and service the typewriter yourself? Take photos of the process as well as close ups of pieces that needed extra attention or had tricky configurations. These can help guide people to know what regular configuration and morphology ought to look like on their models when compared with the broken versions they may have in front of them. These photos can be useful to other users for diagnosing problems they may have. While you’re at it, take a photo or two of the bottom of the machine. 

Close up of the Magic Margin springs on a naked 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter
The threading of the Magic Margin spring on a Royal QDL

Maybe you took a “naked” photo of the machine while it had the shell, platen, and keys off for cleaning? These can be useful for dating changes in internal configuration and features over time as much as changes in design features on the shells themselves.

Close up of a naked 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter seen from an oblique view.

Where is the typewriter’s serial number? Often people can’t identify their particular model, but can take guesses. If your gallery includes a photo of the serial number along with some context about where you found it on the machine, it might help them find theirs so they can better date their year of manufacture. (A close up of a number that doesn’t show were it was on the machine doesn’t help much.) Who knows, it may even help you later when you can’t remember where you found it yourself? Changes in serial number location within series can also be a useful indicator of factory retooling or factory moves over time. 

Cases, cases, cases. Did your portable or ultra portable come with a case? Don’t forget to take photos of those as well. Cases definitely changed over time and having photos of the original case and its condition can be helpful for those attempting to replace theirs. They can also be helpful when damaged ones need repair or restoration work. What does the connecting hardware look like inside them? Did they come with manuals, or additional tools? Add those in too! Did you restore your case? Leave before and after photos. 

Ribbon threading photos! Where are those?! While we have a wide variety of typewriter manuals available, it can be illustrative to have a close up photo of how your machine’s ribbon was properly threaded. Users of forums everywhere can more quickly and easily answer ribbon questions of others in the community if you’ve added good photos of the spools and how the ribbon was threaded.

Smith-Corona typewriter ribbon thread sample with ribbon coming out of a spool on the left, through a black ribbon guide next to the spool cup (which actuates the autoswitch when the eyelet at the end of a spool gets stuck between it and the spool), and then into the two metal guides at the typing point.
Having trouble threading your 5 Series Smith-Corona? Here’s what it ought to look like for the Clipper, Sterling, Silent, and Silent Supers.

Have you done research on the machine in its natural environment? Maybe you’ve researched newspaper or magazine advertisements from when the typewriter was released which tout its features and have original sales prices listed? Why not include photos of these important historical data points?

What other photos are we missing or forgetting that would be nice to have in the database? Drop a note in the comments.

Acquisition: 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe Portable Typewriter with Royal Vogue Typeface

On Sunday September 22, 2024, I picked up what appeared to be a boring-looking, run-of-the-mill, ubiquitous, mid-1950s Royal Quiet De Luxe in brown frieze crinkle paint from ShopGoodWill.com. These typewriters pop up everywhere and regularly sell in the $10-25 range. Of the 3163 typewriter models in the Typewriter Database, the Royal QDL is easily the most collected machine in the typosphere by a margin of 1.5:1 to the next closest model (the Smith-Corona Sterling) on the long list.

I present my 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe portable typewriter with a special hidden feature.

Angled down on the front of a brown Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter next to a crystal old fashioned glass with a shot of Scotch.

The online auction listing for this particular typewriter happened to have a photo of the type basket which included a telltale W, whose sans serif centerlines crisscrossed, which piqued my interest beyond my collector’s desire for a late ’51/’52 QDL variation to pair with my ’48 and ’49 versions and my trusty 1955 model. It was listed for $10.99 when I first saw it, so I waited ever-so-patiently for 4 days with half a dozen alarms set to see if I could snag it for a dramatically below-marketplace valuation. There was one other bid for the minimum, so I put in two last minute bids, one for $20 and another for $1,000 just in case the other bidder had observed what I had noticed and intended to snipe it away. The typewriter collecting gods smiled warmly on me that day.

Close up of the typeslugs on the lefthand side of the basket on a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe with a Vogue typeface. The keys feature the letters and symbols from Q through X including the distinctive overlap of the center crossing lines of the capital W. Between characters on each the slugs are stamped with a small letter "v".

Eagle eyes, patience, and careful bidding won the day! Knowing the perils of typewriter shipping, especially from Goodwill, I followed up the bidding win and spoke to the GoodWill shipping manager and made an increased donation to their shop to ensure the machine was properly packaged for shipping to prevent possible damage to the uncommon machine. All-in I scored a Royal Vogue for the bargain basement price of under $100. It’s the biggest win I’ve experienced in my short typewriter collecting career. Unless I trip over a mint condition Sholes & Glidden sitting next to a garbage bin, I may be unlikely to surpass this level of luck again.

Given that I’ve seen machines, usually Royal model Ps, with a Vogue typeface go for $950-1,200 in unknown working shape on the open market, I suspect that cleaned up and in restored condition, this could easily sell for $1,500-2,500. Of course, I’ve fallen in love with the typeface, so I’m unlikely to let it go any time soon. 

Design

This 1952 machine follows the QDL redesign by Henry Dreyfuss from August 2, 1945 which was put into production in 1948 and changed a bit in 1949. It maintained some of Dreyfuss’ angular shape as well as the tombstone shaped keys, though they changed from the older glass keys of the 40s to the green plastic of the beginning of the plastic onslaught which was to change typewriter manufacture for the next decades. 

The front of the this iteration of the machine features a chromed Royal badging flanked on both sides with chrome wing features which have cutouts for the ribbon reversal and ribbon color selector switches. Later versions in subsequent years would lose the wings in lieu of a hood latch button and and a simpler ribbon color switch selector.

table level view of the front of a brown Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter with scant chrome finishes

The Fall/Winter Sears catalog in 1952 listed this new variation of the Quiet De Luxe for $103.58 in both pica and elite options. The Vogue typeface would have been an available custom order option for a few dollars at the time, but it apparently wasn’t an often ordered one. Of the 522 Royal QDLs in the Typewriter Database at the moment, I’ve only found 5 (including this one) which have a Vogue typeface which makes it less than 1% of the total. Given collectors’ affinity for them, I could easily imagine the actual manufacture rate may have been even smaller.

Though the catalog indicates that the model was 17 pounds for both the machine and the case, my typewriter is 15.7 pounds by itself and 20.1 pounds in the case.

Overall condition

This machine has the appearance of having been at least moderately used. There are a couple bits of paint knocked off some edges (common with portables of this size) and the machine internals were relatively clean. 

While the machine was in very solid workable and immediately usable condition when I received it, it definitely deserved some care and attention. In particular, someone had ill-advisedly used a black/correction ribbon on it, so the interior around and below the typing point was covered with white correction tape sludge.

Close up of the ribbon vibrator and a portion of the segment of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter. The platen and the cylinder scale are flecked with lots of dots of white correction material

On Saturday, October 19th, I spent several hours in the afternoon and then again in the evening pulling the machine apart, cleaning all the external and internal parts and flushing it out with lacquer thinner. Simple Green did an excellent job on the exterior, and I scrubbed some flecks of Correction Fluid off the body. A quick and very light oiling has the machine purring now. I also did a rubdown on the crinkle paint with some WD-40 to make the exterior truly sparkle. I’m now the proud owner of a scintillating wonder of engineering and typeface design.

Close up of the brown frieze crinkle paint on the hood of the typewriter which has a nice sparkle effect to it.

Thought it had the appearance of being reasonably maintained, I couldn’t find any clues that it had had a major overhaul or serious cleaning aside from general maintenance. A few of the linkages had some old, brownish/black grease on them which I would take to indicate that it probably hadn’t been serviced since the 1960s. I’ll have to look up historical dates for the black/white correction tape release, but given the dryness of the black portion of the ribbon I’m guessing the ribbon may have been from the late 1970s. 

A naked Royal Quiet De Luxe sitting on a towel on a wooden table surrounded with typewriter tools, cleaning supplies, and the disassembled portions of the typewriter body and carriage.

Of particular note, the platen still has a small amount of “give” left to it and isn’t as rock hard as I might have suspected for its age. This means I may wait a bit and replace the platen(s) on other machines before I need to get to this one. The rubber rollers still work well and the rubber feet are in reasonable shape too.

The 1952 Quiet De Luxe came with an original period case as well as a key and the original typewriter manual, a digital copy of which can be found on Richard Polt’s Typewriter Site. (At the rate things are going, I’m finding extant keys are almost as rare with portables as finding a Vogue typeface.)

There is what appears to be a Social Security number scratched into the brown paint on the bottom of the machine. I won’t comment further other than to say its a California area SSN, which is where I purchased it, so there’s a reasonable chance that this was a single owner machine.

Keys

The keyboard has a typical mid-century Royal layout. The keys are in a traditional dark green plastic double shot with white plastic. They’re all in exceptional condition aside from the letter “C” which has a small surface flaw that I ought to be able to buff out pretty easily. There are 42 keys and slugs giving 84 typeable characters for a standard United States English keyset along with six additional keys for backspace, shift, shift lock on the left and tab, margin release, and a shift key on the right. The bottom of the 4 bank keyboard features a more standard inset  brown spacebar than its 1948 and 1949 predecessors which had a blocky black design element that made the spacebar more integral to  the front frame of those machines.

View of the keyboard of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe featuring green keys and a brown spacebar.

Other functionality

Manufactured roughly at the peak of typewriter functionality, this medium sized portable machine has almost everything a typist could want in terms of functionality. 

There is a rear rabbit-ear style paper support, double sided Royal Magic Margins, touch control (inside the hood), a manually accessible ribbon switch and bichrome/stencil setting switch on the front, and five manually adjustable tabulator sets accessible from the back which are viewable when looking down with the paper table folded back. It has left and right carriage release levers, both temporary and permanent platen adjustment mechanisms, and a single card finger on the right side of the typing line. This QDL has the usual 1, 2, and 3 line spacing mechanism.

Close up view of the hood, typebasket hole, carriage, and paper table of a brown 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter.

Case

The case certainly has seen some heavy signs of travel, but seems to be holding together well despite the wear. The inside is in excellent shape and none of the fabric on the exterior is coming off despite the heavy wear.

A worn, but functional yellow fabric covered hard case for a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe portable typewriter.

Burgundy red interior of a typewriter case for a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe portable.

A typewriter manual boasting "You own the World's No. 1 Portable" next to a small, black Royal typewriter brush and the key for its case.
Disaster Girl all grown up and ready to put out some serious samizdat.

Typeface Sample

The typeface on my Royal QDL is the previously mentioned highly prized and much-sought-after Royal Vogue. It types 10 characters per inch and 6 vertical lines per inch. A type sample from my machine with blue and green ribbon appears below. If you need an extended sample, for fun I typed out a large portion of the lyrics to Madonna’s 1990 hit Vogue.

Typeface sample of 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe with a distinctive san serif art-deco inspired Vogue face.

Sound

Here’s a sound sample of inserting a sheet of paper, aligning it, writing a sentence, the bell, and a return with more typing on my 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe: 

Photo Gallery of Cleaning

Photo Gallery of Finished Machine

Hero shot of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter on a library card catalog next to a green bottle of Laphroaig with a white label behind a crystal old fashioned glass of Scotch. Angled down on the front of a brown Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter next to a crystal old fashioned glass with a shot of Scotch. table level view of the front of a brown Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter with scant chrome finishes View of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe in brown frieze paint and green plastic keys sitting on a wooden library card catalogue. An old fashioned glass of bourbon sits in the background. Table level view of the left side of a brown crinkle painted 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter View from behind 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter down onto the rabbit ear paper supports and into the typebasket of the typewriter View into the hood of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter showing the typebasket with cleaned slugs. Oblique angle of the left rear corner of a brown 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter Table level view of the back of a brown 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter featuring the somewhat faded but still very clear Royal decal and company information. Table level view of the right side of a brown 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter. View of the keyboard of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe featuring green keys and a brown spacebar. Angle down onto the right side of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter Close up view of the hood, typebasket hole, carriage, and paper table of a brown 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter. View of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter from the top two rows of keys to the back with the hood open so that we can see the ribbon in the cups and the typebars sitting on a black rubber rest. Left rear corner of a 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter with the carriage moved to the right to reveal the window onto the frame with the typewriter's serial number 1952 Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter sitting on its rear panel so we can see the bottom of the machine and all of it's internals